Cafe crush: La Fenetre Soleil

Liz / / 9 Comments

I was just in Saigon for a few days and spent much time checking out the cafes. One of my favourites was La Fenetre Soleil – not as much for the food (there’s not too much to choose from apart from fried snacks and some desserts) but its eclectic Parisian style décor. With wooden floorboards, exposed brick walls, a super high ceiling and massive French glass doors, the space is dramatic in scale with a grungy European feel. Mismatched vintage furniture, a crystal chandelier and a massive vase of birds of paradise complete the look.

La Fenetre Soleil’s drinks menu is a drawcard – the spicy ginger juice is delicious and there’s a selection of teas made with fresh ingredients (like mint and lemongrass). Despite its dingy stairway entrance (though it kind of adds to the charm) I wish La Fenetre Soleil was my own apartment!

La Fenetre Soleil, 2nd Floor, 135 Le Thanh Ton, D1, Saigon

Chocolate – Cambodge style

Liz / / No Comments

One of the best examples of ‘east-west’ fusion I’ve experienced in a long time was some Kampot pepper chocolate I recently tried from Street 240’s Chocolate by The Shop.

The pepper originates from Cambodia’s Kampot province, and back in colonial times was highly prized by the French, who even used it in restaurants back in Paris. Its production fell by the wayside during the Khmer Rouge era but it’s now undergoing a renaissance as Cambodians, expats and tourists alike re-discover its highly fragrant and delicious taste (it really is better than ‘ordinary’ pepper!).

The geniuses at Chocolate by The Shop have mixed crushed Kampot peppercorns with quality Belgian chocolate to create a taste sensation with serious bite. Fellow chocoholics and pepper fiends should definitely give it a try!

Shoptalk: Kravan House

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My latest purchase from Kravan House – a king size silk bedspread

 

Silk shops can be found on almost every corner in Phnom Penh with most carrying similar wares, some slightly more tasteful than others. A small silk shop called Kraven House manages to combine taste with reasonable prices (and it’s also run by an NGO as an added bonus).

It stocks a mixture of ubiquitous silk bags and scarves with some more unique items. I particularly covet their coin purses and jewellery rolls with a funky Indian-style print and beaded embroidery. They also stock stripey cotton scarves which are well worth checking out.

The shop is so small and unassuming that I hardly even remember its name and mostly just refer to it as ‘Favourite Shop’. It also seems to be a favourite with buyers for western retailers. A friend has seen people from shops like Cambodia House in Sydney’s Woollahra stocking up on wholesale orders here, which they can then make quite the profit on in a world where silk and anything with a ‘Made in Cambodia’ tag is a bit more precious and rare.

Kravan House, 13 Street 178, Phnom Penh

A new place for a dim sum fix

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On the weekend I tried out the dim sum at the newly opened Yi Sang restaurant at Almond Hotel, another Luu Meng venture (the guy behind Malis, Topaz, Cafe Sentiment and more). Compared to the city’s only other dim sum restaurant (that I know of, and not counting the InterCon) – Sam Doo – the restaurant looked more like a ‘real’ dim sum place yet sadly, minus the trolleys.

The dishes were really cheap (between US$2 and US$3 a basket) and the barbeque pork buns and prawn dumplings definitely hit the spot. Unfortunately though a few things we tried to order (like the barbeque pork in rice noodle rolls) were greeted with the dreaded ‘no have’. We also ordered some sesame balls which strangely didn’t appear though the waitress kept saying they were five minutes away. In the end we just cancelled them.

With the bill for seven of us working out at less than US$6 a head for a dim sum feast and copious amounts of Chinese green tea in a clean, spanking new setting, it now makes me question why we spend so much more in some of Phnom Penh’s grottier old Chinese diners!

Image via Almond H0tel

Siem Reap’s Hotel de la Paix

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Our room – complete with bed for baby

This was all ours – so relaxing!

Earlier in the week we paid a flying visit to Siem Reap and were fortunate enough to stay at the ultra chic Hotel de la Paix. What can I say but…wow! And no, they’re not paying me to say this!

Designed by the brains behind Bangkok’s Bed Supperclub, the hotel combines art deco style with Khmer touches, creating a unique and highly stylish look and feel. Our room was a two-level loft with a spiral staircase leading up to two massage tables for in-room spa treatments, with doors leading out to a private terrace complete with outdoor bathtub. The room itself had a rainforrest shower, iPod and speakers, WiFi, the most comfortable pillows ever and a spacious lounge area.

Beyond the room was an amazing pool with art-deco inspired columns and so many nooks and crannies to swim around and into. It was surrounded by lush tropical foliage like frangipani trees and traveller’s palms, with loungey day beds to chill out on. So blissful, even if our baby had to sit in a stroller poolside while we had a quick swim (things aren’t as simple as they once were!).

We also decided to finally dine at Meric, the hotel’s chic restaurant, after hearing good things about it for ages but for some reason never quite making it. It was worth the wait. While there is a set menu of innovative takes on Khmer food, we opted for the gourmet European menu and indulged in spice crusted beef tenderloin and sea scallops with cauliflower puree and citrus and licorice sauces. For dessert we shared a flourless chocolate cake with a runny centre (delicious) and bitter chocolate sorbet.The lighting, the decor and the atmosphere created a sophisticated vibe, and the food was excellent. Meric is a true culinary gem in Siem Reap and I highly recommend it!

Is Singapore really boring?!

Liz / / 3 Comments

We’re going to Singapore for 3 nights in October to meet our friends Rob and Stef who will be passing through. Surprisingly, it’ll our first time there despite all our previous travels around Asia. I’m really looking forward to it, though am a little surprised that so many friends claim it’s a boring, soulless place. Sure, it sounds very modern and sanitised, especially compared to other Southeast Asian cities, but with its cultural mix, food scene and abundance of shopping opportunities how could it possibly be boring?!!!

From the research I’ve done, the city’s Chinatown area sounds pretty cool (as do the boutique hotels – we’re planning to stay at Hotel 1929 though haven’t booked it yet), and the streets Haji Lane and Bali Lane and surrounds sound like really amazing, boutiquey little areas with great shopping and cafes – this area is definitely high on my Singapore agenda.

If you have any insights into essential Singapore must-dos (particular unique/interesting shopping spots and great cafes and restaurants) I’d love to hear from you!

Deli-cious

Liz / / 4 Comments

One of my favourite Phnom Penh restaurants, Le Duo (a Sicilian eatery with corny 80s Italian decor – think a faux leaning tower of Pisa, an overhead awning recreating the Sistine Chapel etc. – forgivable because of the amazing food) now has a deli on its premises.

We ate at Le Duo last night (I had the homemade gnocchi with gorgonzola and walnuts – so rich and amazing) and noticed the new deli for the first time. Owner Luigi then took it upon himself to give us a little guided tour and a rundown of the goods on offer.

Homemade pastas are available and there’s pesto, arborio rice, herbs, some fresh produce, lots of San Pelligrino in different sizes, Italian wines, and best of all, there’s a meat and cheese cabinet that puts Lucky’s to shame. Huge slabs of pecorino cheese and grana padano sit side by side with tasty salamis and beautiful prosciuttos (three different varieties).

He also stocks paninis and suggested a great DIY sandwich could be made for lunch if you bought some of the bread and 50 grams or so of a meat and a cheese to add – I’ll definitely be back to do just that, yum!

Le Duo, No. 17 Street 228, Phnom Penh