{NYC} Highlights of the Meatpacking District

Liz / / 6 Comments

One area we really loved wandering around while in NYC was the Meatpacking District. It had a totally different look to the other downtown neighbourhoods, with wider footpaths and low rise, converted industrial buildings (including remnants of its namesake meatpacking plants).

The once no-go neighbourhood is now home to high-end fashion stores, boutique hotels and chic eateries like Pastis, where we stopped for creme brulee and people watching.

Nearby were these striking wall murals of Madonna by a street artist called Mr Brainwash.


We ventured up to the much talked about Highline – a disused railway line that’s recently been converted into a park and public space, spanning the Meatpacking District to Chelsea.
Here’s the view looking down….

…and the view above of The Standard – a stunning design hotel (that’s part of the Highline underneath).

…and a close-up of the urban-meets-nature Highline where rustic railway tracks merge with wild plants – so effective and pretty.

{NYC} 5 things I loved about the Brooklyn Flea

Liz / / 7 Comments

{1} The Setting
A schoolyard in leafy, brownstone-lined Fort Greene plays host to the Brooklyn Flea each Saturday (it’s also on in DUMBO on Sundays), a market featuring retro and vintage furniture and homewares, secondhand jewellery and clothing, independent designers and gourmet treats. The neighbourhood is picture perfect and I loved its community feel, historic buildings and laidback vibe.

{2} Typography everywhere
The Flea is a typography lover’s dream. Wooden block stamps, plastic and tin letters rescued from old signs and vintage typewriters were spotted, but my favourite finds were rings made from old typewriter keys and vintage toy building blocks.

{3} Vintage and retro finds
From mid-century style chairs to lamps and retro kitchenware, the Flea featured many a cool find to decorate a home. There were even a few coffee tables made from old railway sleepers, and old school lockers that would be a great storage space in a vintage look room!

{4} Innovate design
This little tent (the Design Co-op) was home to an assortment of independent designers’ wares. I loved the cute screenprints on these t-shirts and baby onesies.

{5} Rustic woodfired pizza
Our mid-morning sustenance search at the Flea came to a halt at this homemade woodfired pizza stall. The oven is on the back of an old trailer, and from its fiery confines comes a margarita pizza to die for, with fresh basil, tasty tomato sauce and oozing mozzarella on a crispy base. Pizza perfection!
For more on the Brooklyn Flea, check out their blog, or an interview with one of its founders by Lonely Planet. If only I could access this market every weekend…I’m afraid Tan Dinh (my Saigon local) just doesn’t quite measure up!!

{NYC} Soul food at Melba’s in Harlem

Liz / / 8 Comments

Soul food is something I’ve only ever read about or seen on tv – it’s not something that registers on the Australian or Asian food radar, given its American-centric nature.

To the uninitiated, soul food can best be described as fare rooted in African-American traditions, emanating from America’s south with African influences. Vegetables like collard greens feature, as do grits (like polenta), crab cakes, catfish, fried chicken and down-home comfort type foods like mashed potato and onion rings.

Chicken and waffles at Melba’s, served with maple syrup and strawberry butter

One thing we were curious to try was the supposed nirvana of all soul food dishes – chicken and waffles. That’s fried chicken and huge spongy waffles served TOGETHER with maple syrup poured all over the two(!) In search of this artery clogging grease fest we headed ‘across 110th street’ (love that song!) to Harlem, the heart of Manhattan’s African-American community and home to several well-known soul food restaurants. Top of my list was Amy Ruth’s, but after meeting up with some Upper West Side dwelling friends who are in the Harlem know, we were persuaded to try Melba’s instead – a classy little restaurant representing the new, more upmarket style pervading Harlem.

Happy to go with sleek and chic over down and dirty diner, we caught the subway to Melba’s – with a walk through Harlem’s streets at night not nearly as adventurous or dangerous as I was perversely hoping!

Melba’s had the look of a classy brasserie or bistro, with dim lighting, a cosy, buzzing atmosphere and a jazz bar vibe, given it was open mic night when we attended. Of the four of us, two opted for the famous chicken and waffles, which was accompanied by not only maple syrup but strawberry flavoured butter(!!!). Two of us ordered a plate of sides to sample the mash, onion rings, collard greens and more, and we also tried the catfish strips and crabcakes – both delicious. So how were the chicken and waffles? Surprisingly – they weren’t as disgusting as they sound! The maple syrup somehow tied the two main ingredients together in a warm, deep fried, comforting, sweet and savoury, complimentary kind of way! I’m not sure I’d place chicken and waffles in the ‘dishes I regularly like to eat’ category (not having a death by obesity wish) but I’m glad we expanded our eating horizons with a side trip into soul food territory – and what better place to do it than Harlem!

Saigon escape: a month in Bangkok, Sydney and NYC

Liz / / 4 Comments


Hi! I’m back in steamy Saigon after an amazing month away, and luckily, rather than suffering post-holiday blues am feeling happy to be back (first stop was the new Quan An Ngon restaurant on Pasteur – if you’re in Saigon check it out, the building’s beautiful and the food is the same delicious menu as the original).

Our time away began with a long weekend in Bangkok, reacquainting myself with the Siam neighbourhood (read: shops, shops and more shops, cough cough…). Oh and food. Lots of great food. We also caught up with some friends who have moved there which was lots of fun.
Next – a week and a bit in Sydney, which was alot of catching up with family and friends and friends’ new babies and old babies (and unborn babies!). We went to some of our favourite places – Zumbo’s in Balmain, Sulfaro’s (for pizza & coffee) and Colefax Chocolates in Haberfield, Berkelouw Books and movies at the Dendy in Newtown, restaurants and bars in Crown Street, and our old suburb, Dulwich Hill, where I was very happy to discover a new cafe has opened at the end of our street which will be pretty convenient in future! We also went to some of the new ‘small bars’ popping in Sydney (a la Melbourne or New York – yay!) like Pocket Bar in Darlinghurst and The Hive in Erskineville.
Then, bidding little Z adieu, we headed off on something of a post-babymoon to New York City!!! The feeling of walking through an airport without being encumbered by a pram and a big bag full of baby paraphenalia was the best feeling! And being able to read, watch movies and listen to music on the plane was bliss. I didn’t even care that it took about 22 hours to get from Sydney to New York, and felt a bit sorry for the tired, haggard mothers disembarking at the end with screaming baby in tow (in a ‘so glad it’s not me’ kind of way!). Our New York stay featured 10 days of eating, drinking, shopping, art galleries and wandering all over. It was one of the best holidays of my life. Lots of gushy posts to come featuring our favourite neighbourhoods and food finds!

{travel inspiration} Cat & Adam’s cycling journey

Liz / / 7 Comments

The ever-intrepid Cat & Adam in their cycling finery!
My friend Cat and her boyfriend Adam are currently on a cycling journey – from London to Australia, via the world!! It is definitely the most ambitious and inspirational trip of any kind that anyone I know has ever undertaken.

From their temporary home in London (both are Australian) they have so far cycled across Europe (France to Greece and lots of pretty places in between), across Turkey on what sounded like an epic journey in itself, and as I type are traversing Georgia. Next, it’s the ‘stans (think Borat’s homeland!), Iran, a ferry over to UAE and Oman, then to Sri Lanka (ok, they have to fly there but then it’s cycling all the way). Then its across to India and non-stop cycling from south to north, to Nepal, Tibet and into China, down into southeast Asia (and hopefully a pitstop at my place!) and finally, to Oz.

Cat with some gypsy thugs, pretending to be friendly for the camera (actually the one on the right looks pretty scary)

Wild camping in Turkey – what a beautiful sight to wake up to!
Tales of camping in the wild, encounters with gypsy thugs, the overwhelming hospitality of strangers and awesome sights and scenery along the way are all chronicled in Cat and Adam’s blog Cycling2Oz if you want to join me in some armchair travelling! Am looking forward to their Asia leg and when they finally make it to sunny Saigon for some much needed R&R (am thinking massages, pedicures and hairwashes at Jasmine – maybe some beard maintenance for Adam!) though there’s many an adventure ahead of them before then. Can’t wait to read more. I hope they make a film or write a book about their experience!

Adam tackling some mountainous terrain in Turkey
So – where would you go/what would you do if you were going to undertake some kind of epic journey across the world? I’d love to follow the ancient spice route on a food-focussed journey, taking in markets and souks, spice gardens, tea and coffee plantations, authentic, family-run restaurants, cooking schools and staying in atmospheric hotels with character and history along the way…what about you?

New York, New York!

Liz / / 7 Comments

A scanned pic of the Brooklyn Bridge taken on our first NYC trip in 2000 (pre-digital camera days!)

Exactly four weeks from now I’ll be exploring cafes and shops in the East Village, strolling through SoHo or might be at MOMA. I’m going to New York!!

In case it’s not obvious enough, I’m pretty excited about our upcoming 10-day stay in what might be my favourite city in the entire world. First though, we’re having a couple of days in Bangkok to refuel on pad kee mao and iberry, stock up on books at Kinokuniya, hopefully get a Thai massage or two and wander the labyrinth that is Siam Square. Then it’s on to Sydney to see family and friends and do lots of fun Sydney things (and eat lots of yum Sydney food, e.g. macarons from Adriano Zumbo’s in Balmain – obsessed – even had them hand-delivered in Saigon when my parents came to stay!). Then New York, then back to Sydney for a bit more time before returning to Saigon (a month away in all). The countdown to this trip has been the most agonising one ever (18 days to go…. 18 days to go….). Before then I need to try and keep myself pre-occupied with Saigon-centric stuff so I don’t drive myself (even more) insane!

Chic Stays: Ancient House, Hoi An

Liz / / 4 Comments

Hoi An is definitely beautiful, despite its sometimes overwhelming number of tailor shops and traipsing tour groups. The mix of architecture is stunning and you can’t help being captivated by the colourful lanterns adorning the restored shopfronts, and of course, succumbing to a bit of retail lure. The choice of hotels is also quite overwhelming, and we manage to never stay in the same place twice.

On our last trip to Hoi An we stayed in a character filled hotel called Ancient House. A family-run hotel, they have a house on the grounds where they make rice paper using traditional methods (with extended family also living there). You can wander in and see them at work and witness the rice paper rolls drying on racks in the sun. The family even invited us in for a chat in their lounge room!



Stay for: the refreshingly unmanicured grounds with an abundance of tropical flowers and foliage, the comfortable rooms, the pool and the Ancient House itself. And the Vietnamese food in the restaurant (like the bo la lot – beef wrapped in leaves and grilled, yum!).

Not for: the location – it was a little too far out of the centre of the old town to walk so we took a taxi there and back, which kind of put a dampener on the small town/walking around thing. But without a baby or little kids in tow you could cycle or take a motorbike.

Halong Bay: the good, the bad and the slightly unsightly (ok, ugly!)

Liz / / 8 Comments

We recently went on an overnight boat trip on beautiful Halong Bay with some visiting family. To most people, Halong Bay needs no introduction. If you haven’t seen the iconic images of Halong Bay’s limestone peaks jutting out of jade green sea, then you may have seen similar scenes depicted of Guilin in China. It really does look like it does in the pictures, but on a much grander, ‘need to see it to believe it’ scale.

It was great to return after our first foray to the bay on our Vietnam trip around six years ago. Then, we were on a boat with a random selection of backpackers and expats (the Australian pilot on a break from his Hong Kong base and the French couple living it up in Singapore who we met on that trip definitely helped fuel my expat-in-Asia desires!). This time around, we hired a boat to ourselves, which was not only more relaxing for us, but essential to prevent annoying other people given we had a baby on board!

We cruised past floating fishing villages….


…had a brief stop at the ‘Surprising Cave’ – as did every other boat it seems…the boats and tour companies are quite strictly controlled so there’s not much boating off the beaten path. Cave stop aside, you feel suitably spaced from other boats when cruising along (the photo below is the worst it got).


Life’s day to day essentials are all bought, sold and delivered by boat in Halong Bay. Here, a 24 hour supply of water (for cooking and washing) is delivered to our boat…

There are also floating vendors, as per the Mekong Delta’s waterways – mostly specialising in local junk food!


One of my favourite parts of the trip was transferring to a small rowboat to visit a hidden lagoon, which we entered via a small cave/tunnel…


Once inside, we rowed around a tranquil waterway surrounded by sheer rock walls and lush vegetation. It had a real undiscovered feel, despite the fact it’s on all the boat tour itineraries. We were lucky it wasn’t too busy…


And what has to be the most random sighting of the whole trip – an enormous cruise ship that seemed to emerge out of the mist early in the morning, looking totally out of place in a bay populated solely by traditional looking wooden junks.

Hopefully this isn’t the future of tourism on Halong Bay. It would be nice if the cruise passengers could transfer to junks before cruising the bay, leaving the unsightly mega-boat moored elsewhere!

Chic Stays: Maison d’Hanoi

Liz / / 4 Comments


Maison d’Hanoi is a newly-opened hotel in the middle of Hanoi’s Old Quarter action, only a few blocks away from the great boutiques on Nha Tho Street (also home to the cathedral). The hotel bills itself as ’boutique’ but with 55 rooms it doesn’t exactly feel small and intimate! The mod-Asian decor is a refreshing change from old-world/colonial or stock standard hotel blah, as often found in Hanoi – I particularly loved the painted red Chinese-style chests (very A.G.I.A!). We just stayed here for a few nights and found it highly convenient, albeit a little over-popular.

Stay for: the central location, the fresh, contemporary Asian decor
Not for: peace and quiet (the hotel is still undergoing some construction and there’s a lot of staff coming and going – my trusty Hanoi LUXE city guide was right!), fresh air (some rooms have no windows)