{Book love} Henna for the Broken-Hearted

When I first heard about Henna for the Broken-Hearted by Australian author Sharell Cook I immediately knew it would be right up my Asia-loving alley. A traveller turned expat finds new love and her life’s calling (writing) in mystical, magical India. A place I have travelled around and grappled with and would love to give another chance some day.

Sharell’s story is an inspiring one. At age 30 her marriage falls apart and she has a less then enthralling accounting career. A volunteer stint in Kolkata and subsequent travels around India combined with meeting soulmate Aryan lead to a life rejuvenated. She now lives in Mumbai and blogs at Diary of a White Indian Housewife (which I’m madly trawling through the archives of to catch up with), as well as writes professionally. Oh, and is now married to Aryan!

Though Sharell’s story is far more dramatic (and dare I say interesting) than my own, parts of her story really resonated with me and my own experiences living in Asia and searching for meaning. I had the love bit sorted already(!) but also realised my true passion (writing) while living in Cambodia, meanwhile grappling with cultural differences and all the ups and downs of living in a developing country

I found at the end of Henna for the Broken-Hearted I wanted to know more…what happened next? What other obstacles did the author face? What other uniquely Indian things were encountered? I love this genre of book and will happily take any recommendations for others like it!

{Shoptalk} Drunk on the Moon, Newtown

I came across vintage furniture shop Drunk on the Moon by accident on the little strip of shops and restaurants on Newtown’s Australia Street, home to the excellent Black Star Pastry cafe. The shop is tiny but packed with a really well curated selection of vintage furniture and home accessories, like wooden dining tables, small wooden pigeon hole shelves, ladders, ice chests, stools and lots more. Like a little piece of the Brooklyn Flea in Sydney’s Newtown, the prices are really reasonable and it’s one of those places where you fall in love with everything, from the big pieces to the small. Oh, and if you’re into typography there are vintage Scrabble letters for $1 a piece.

Drunk on the Moon, 247 Australia Street, Newtown, tel: 0409 841 451, www.drunkonthemoon.com.au

Image courtesy Drunk on the Moon

Sydney’s best ethnic eats: a suburban adventure

Jasmins, Lakemba
By Liz Ledden. Article first published by Travelwire Asia, 26 January 2012
SYDNEY’S culturally diverse population produces no shortage of delicious cuisine from all over the world. A trip to the suburbs, particularly those in the city’s inner west, south west and west uncovers an amazing array of eats from Asia, Europe, the Middle East, South America and more. It’s literally the world on a plate. Here are some of the most daytrip-worthy destinations in Sydney for ethnic eats.
Lakemba
Home to a large Muslim population of various ethnic backgrounds, Lakemba is a fascinating place to explore and eat. Excellent Lebanese food has put Lakemba on the Sydney food lovers’ map, in particular the justifiably popular Jasmins offering the best Lebanese style grilled meats, dips, salads and breads at a bargain price. For dessert, cross Haldon Street to Patisserie Arja for baklava, ladies fingers and other middle eastern desserts of the pastry persuasion. In Lakemba you will also find Sydney’s only restaurant featuring Christmas and Cocos Islands cuisine, Island Dreams Café, with its intriguing blend of Malaysian, Indonesian and Chinese influences.
Fairfield
Far flung Fairfield in Sydney’s southwest is home to many new migrants to Australia, and a diverse mix of more established ones. The streets surrounding Fairfield train station are alive and thriving, packed with restaurants, cafés and food shops from Lao restaurants to an Afghan bakery and Sydney’s only Iraqi restaurant, Al Diaffah Al IraqiLao Village is an authentic, cheap and unassuming little eatery for some seriously authentic Lao cuisine – try the grilled quail and the chicken larb. La Paula is the perfect dessert spot for Chilean sweets, specialising in luscious dulce de leche creations. New on the Fairfield scene is Misky Cravings, a homely Peruvian place riding Sydney’s new wave of Latino inspired eateries.
Bankstown
A mix of Lebanese and Vietnamese culinary influences dominate the Bankstown dining scene, which also features Indian and African eateries and many excellent delis and fresh  produce emporiums. Pho An is a must try – a large and buzzing Vietnamese restaurant featuring nothing but variations of chicken and beef pho. The broth is fragrant, the noodles are abundant and the flavour is unbeatable amongst the city’s plethora of other pho joints. For a raucous Lebanese feast in a party atmosphere, try Summerland.
Cabramatta
The Little Vietnam of Sydney, Cabramatta is a former trouble spot for drugs and crime come good. It is now more famous for pho than dodgy dealings and has the colour, aromas and vibrancy of a Saigon market. Bursting at the seams with Vietnamese restaurants, fruit and vegetable shops, cafes (coffee with condensed milk anyone?), seafood sellers and fabric merchants, the suburb has some of Sydney’s best Vietnamese food. There’s the perennially popular Thanh Binh for everything from roll your own fresh spring rolls to succulent seafood, and migrant success story Bau Truong among many others. If the bustling atmosphere is too much head to nearby Canley Heights for low-key but equally delicious eats, like the excellent Holy Basil for spicy Lao food dished up in stylish surrounds.
Holy Basil, Cabramatta

Haberfield
Haberfield in Sydney’s inner west can best be described as Sydney’s Little Italy without neighbouring Leichhardt’s crowds. Excellent old school pizza can be found at Napoli in Bocca, and there’s also La Disfida and Dolcissimo for casual Italian dining. Pasticceria Papa is a great dessert pitstop with its array of Italian biscuits and cakes, while A&P Sulfaro  is another contender in the best biscotti stakes. Haberfield is also home to excellent food shopping, with its Italian bread shop, fresh pasta purveyor and cheese shop and deli, Paesanella. Even the supermarkets have a heavy Italian bent, evidenced by the amazing antipasti array at the IGA supermarket.
Petersham
Closer to the city centre, the inner west suburb of Petersham is home to a large Portuguese community and features a small but enticing array of Portuguese eateries on its main thoroughfare, busy New Canterbury Road. Sweet Belem reputedly has the best Portuguese tarts this side of Lisbon, while hungry locals queue for succulent and spicy Portuguese chicken at Frango, which is cooked flattened over coals and basted in a spicy peri peri sauce. There are Portuguese butcheries along the strip and several other eateries, such as Casa Brasil for churrasco, or barbequed meats. The local bottleshop features an abundance of Portuguese wine too, including its intriguing ‘green’ wine, Vinho Verde.
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Other articles I’ve written for Travelwire Asia lately feature some of my favourite eats from my old homes Cambodia and Vietnam (miss them, miss the food!!):
Oh, and for more on Lakemba, one of my favourite foodie suburbs (in case you haven’t guessed) here’s an article I wrote for Pocket Cultures:

Loving…Marrickville’s cafes

I can’t seem to get enough of Marrickville’s cafes lately (which keep on multiplying – yay!). I’ve blogged about the gorgeous Double Roasters before and while I do love it I have a tendency to try new and different places all the time.

Marrickville Road Cafe is a cute, grungy little place with a graffiti mural on one wall and a brilliant breakfast burrito. It’s just started operating as a wine bar and dinner spot on Thursday, Friday and Saturday nights. The wine selection is minimal and it’s no sommelier fronted Surry Hills small bar, but for a nice glass of cab sav and a satisfying burger on a recent rainy meant-to-be-summer evening it definitely hit the spot.

From one cafe crush to another, my allegiances then switched to 2204 on Addison Road. Cavernous and cool, there’s an exposed brick wall on one side and a black wall on the other with vintage couches to sink into. The bacon, brie and cranberry panini is delicious and there’s free wi-fi to while away your day.

I’m also totally in love with Hellenic Bakery on Illawarra Road. Think a Greek sweet emporium packed to the rafters with luscious cakes, biscuits, breads and pastries. While it’s not really a cafe, you can eat at one of their few outdoor tables and grab a coffee from the cafe next door. Their sweets run the gamut from Greek (like galaktoboureko) to the generic (like mud cake) and it’s all so enticing. My favourite so far is their chocolate cannoli complete with choc chips squished on the end at only $2 a pop.

Cornersmith seems to be hottest thing to ever hit Marrickville… so hot it’s always so packed. (No I don’t want to ‘go on a list’ and wait. It’s MARRICKVILLE not the Lower freakin’ East Side!). Once I get over the fact you may have to queue for their reportedly awesome housemade pickles, locavore cuisine and Mecca coffee and actually eat there I’ll let you know!

{Sydney Eats} Faheem Fast Food, Enmore

A Sydney stalwart for cheap Pakistani and Indian Eats, Faheem Fast Food has long been the go-to place for taxi drivers hailing from the subcontinent. It still is, but you’re also likely to see groups of 20-something Newtown dwellers pre or post bar crawl, families and assorted in the know spice lovers amongst the mix.

The decor is no-frills, some say the service is brusque (let’s say it’s efficient) but the food is satisfyingly hot and seriously tasty. The tandoori chicken is a must try – lean, succulent and spicy; the chickpeas (in a tomato based curry) are a delicious veg option, and the Pakistani speciality ‘Nihari’ is a winner – two chunks of melt in your mouth, slow braised beef in a rich and earthy curry (great for naan dipping). Their mango lassi is the perfect heat beating beverage. Dishes at Faheem’s hover around the $11 mark and are substantially sized – all are a bargain.

Faheem Fast Food, 194-196 Enmore Road, Enmore, tel: 02 9550 4850
Open Mon-Fri 5pm-midnight, Sat-Sun 12pm-midnight

Faheem Fast Food on Urbanspoon

{Sydney Eats} Island Dreams Cafe, Lakemba



Lakemba is well known for its amazing Lebanese eateries (like Jasmins) but there’s more to this fascinating multicultural hub than baklava and hommus. One of the most unique places on the bustling Haldon Street strip is Island Dreams Cafe, specialising in Christmas and Cocos Islands cuisine. These remote islands are territories of Australia and located in the Indian ocean – Christmas Island just south of Jakarta and the Cocos Islands half way between Western Australia and Sri Lanka.

The food from the islands is heavily influenced by Malaysian cuisine (with a dash of Chinese and Indonesian) so there’s nasi lemak, beef rendang, curry puffs and chicken curry (on the bone) on the menu. Lemon chilli chicken is another specialty, and on the day we visited there was a stirfried liver dish too. It’s cheap and cheerful home style cooking at its best, with a choice of two dishes and rice at $8.50 with a beyond enormous serving size. The rendang is rich and not overly spicy – it’s hearty, warming food definitely served with love.

The drinks here are major drawcards too (just ask the bunch of regulars hanging out the front on the pavement), from teh tarik to a large range of coffees from the typical to the traditional – think sweetened with condensed milk. I loved their delicious falooda style rose syrup based shake flecked with basil seeds, and there was a coconut consumed too (Saigon flashbacks!). I felt very welcomed and at home here, and just a little bit wistful for an exotic, tropical escape.

Island Dreams Cafe, 47 Haldon Street, Lakemba, tel: 02 9740 9909
Open Mon-Fri 8.30am-10.30pm, Sat 9.30am-10pm, Sun 10am-9.30pm

Island Dreams Cafe on Urbanspoon

{Sydney Eats} Bau Truong, Marrickville

Bau Truong stands out like a beacon of cool design in a suburb awash with delicious but aesthetically challenged Vietnamese restaurants. A cool turquoise and yellow theme pervades the otherwise moody, dark interior, there’s a loft level creating a great feeling of space and a cool warrior-like wall mural dominates. The restaurant is the third in a series of Bau Truongs – the others are mainstays of the Cabramatta and Canley Heights eating scenes.

Fortunately the food here matches its superior surrounds, with the menu featuring Vietnamese cuisine with a focus on the country’s south and some dishes offering a nod to the owners Vietnamese-Chinese heritage. There’s a ‘tapas’ like menu featuring snacks from bo la lot to banh xeo and fresh spring rolls, then a large menu with soups, stews, grilled meats and more…lots more! Note to parents: the soft shell crab with tamarind sauce is the perfect kid-friendly food – crunchy fried batter, easy to eat, tasty but chilli-less (and there’s highchairs, and they open at 5pm for dinner so you can get your not so date-ish date night on).

Bau Truong, 185 Marrickville Road, Marrickville, tel: 02 9569 4938I loved their salt and pepper squid, one of their more Chinese influenced dishes. Covered in a tasty mix of shallot and chilli it also comes with a bowl of salt, pepper and lemon for dipping. There are wines by the glass for a reasonable $8 or so and there’s delicious Angry Man beer by Murray’s Brewing Co. Basically, it ticks all the boxes for a family-friendly dining destination with gorgeous decor and amazing food. Did I mention it’s in my neighbourhood too?!

Also at:
42 John Street, Cabramatta, tel: 02 9727 4492
250 Canley Vale Road, Canley Heights, tel: 02 9755 7099

Bau Truong on Urbanspoon

{Product review} Chobani yoghurt

I’ve always been a yoghurt lover, from the little Yoplait tubs of my childhood to the plain Greek yoghurt that’s a permanent fixture in my fridge today. I usually add my own toppings to Greek yoghurt, but when I was sent some flavoured yoghurt samples from Chobani this week (a New York based co. that’s now available in Australia) I was happy to indulge.

Rather than pre-mixed, their yoghurt comes plain with a layer of fruit mixture at the bottom (the taste test winner was the passionfruit). The yoghurt itself is labne-like in texture with its liquid strained – luxuriously thick and creamy but surprisingly fat free, with some flavours at 2%. You’d never guess this was the case though. It’s textural trickery at its best!

As for my favourite way to eat yoghurt, this is what I do to convince myself I’m having a sweet treat when it’s actually healthy (clever – I know!):

  • a bowl of Greek yoghurt
  • a handful of frozen blueberries & raspberries
  • a handful of roasted almonds
  • 1 dessertspoon of shredded coconut
  • 1 teaspoon of rosewater

Add toppings to yoghurt and voila! A dessert worthy of a healthy eating new year’s resolution.

P.S. If you’re wondering where to find Chobani it’s currently retailing at Woolworths’ stores throughout Sydney at $2.29 a pop.

6 great places to shop in Phnom Penh

Bliss – a gorgeous shop and day spa on Phnom Penh’s Street 240

By Liz Ledden. Article first published on Travelwire Asia, 6 January 2012.

IF you haven’t visited Cambodia then shopping may not be one of the first things that spring to mind about this fascinating southeast Asian destination. However, Cambodian silk is stunning, high quality and often quite affordable, as is the silver jewellery. There’s a burgeoning fashion scene with both locals and expats producing innovative designs, a flourishing art scene and gorgeous homewares abound.

Ambre
Phnom Penh’s premier shopping destination for fashionistas, Ambre features stunning, colourful clothing by Cambodia’s best known fashion designer, Romyda Keth.  Situated in a French colonial era building, the shop is divided into colour coded rooms over two levels. In addition to evening dresses and stylish separates there’s a selection of menswear, childrenswear and more formal offerings for weddings and events. Romyda’s designs sell for much more in her overseas stores, so shopping for her designs on her home turf is a treat.
37 Street 178, Phnom Penh, tel: +855 (0)23 217 935, open 10am-7pm Tues-Sun

Bliss
Casual, cotton, cool clothing can be found at beautiful Bliss, a pitstop on Street 240 for stylish locals, expats and travellers for over 15 years now. Think floaty kaftans, breezy tops and light cotton sundresses with a focus on eclectic patterns, plus funky fabric bags, tropical chic quilts and cushions. If the gorgeous goods on offer weren’t enough, there’s an idyllic day spa onsite for a post shopping massage.
29 Street 240, Phnom Penh, tel: +855 (023) 215 754, open 9am-9pm Mon-Sun

Jasmine
Jasmine is another must-stop shop on Street 240’s strip of gorgeous boutiques. It features Cambodian silk and organza creations of the dressier variety, with beautiful silk shirt dresses in block colours a standout. It is highly priced for Cambodia with pieces in the US$100-$200 range, but for the workmanship and quality of materials used it offers good value by western standards.
73 Street 240, Phnom Penh, tel: +855 (0)23 223 103

Russian Market
An obligatory stop on any Phnom Penh site-seeing circuit, the Russian Market is a shopping stalwart for several good reasons. It is cheap as chips (even before bargaining), it features brand name clothing that has found its way to the market from the city’s many garment factories, it’s full of local character and colour and sells all manner of Cambodian trinkets, home décor, accessories and potential gifts. Look for local NGO Mith Samlanh’s ‘Too-It Too-it’ stall which sells funky objects made from things like newspapers and recycled rice bags.
Corner Street 163 and 444, Phnom Penh, open sunset to sundown 7 days

Kravan House
A one-stop shop for Cambodian made souvenirs, Kravan House has a little bit of everything stashed inside an ubiquitous narrow shophouse. There’s a cabinet of covetable silver jewellery, silk bedspreads, handbags, carvings, and a rainbow of silk, cotton and organza scarves woven in the Cambodian countryside. The staff are friendly and prices here are super cheap compared to some of the surrounding shops hawking similar wares.
13 Street 178, Phnom Penh, tel: +855 (0)23 990 195, open 8am-9pm 7 days

Chocolate by the Shop
Belgian chocolate made in Cambodia has to be the ultimate east-west fusion dessert, especially if it’s their delicious Kampot pepper variety. The pepper used is from Kampot province in Cambodia’s south, and is highly regarded for its fragrant, full flavour. In French colonial times it was coveted by Parisian chefs and is now being rediscovered by a new generation of travelling gourmands. Stop by this cute chocolate café to try some enveloped in dark chocolate, and be tempted by their other sweet offerings too.
35 Street 240, Phnom Penh, tel: +855 (0)23 998 638