The Sultan’s Table, Enmore


The destination:
We headed to Enmore’s The Sultan’s Table for Turkish delights (of the savoury kind) on a whim after nearby Faheem’s Fast Food was found to be closed. Our cravings for something spicy and subcontinental were overcome once we saw the delicious spread inside The Sultan’s Table, a Turkish kebab shop and eat-in restaurant serving up pides, kebabs, dips, charcoal grilled meats and lots of vegetarian treats (vine leaves, stuffed capsicums and more).

The vibe: 
The Sultan’s Table initially looks like just another Sydney kebab shop (with a slightly more enticing array of food on display), but out the back is a simple covered terrace to sit and the food (and charming service) is anything but ordinary.

The eats:
First up, we had a plate of dips (hummous, baba ganoush and beetroot) and Turkish bread fresh from the oven – a significant serving size for a ‘small’ which could have been lunch in itself. Each of the dips were delicious but the beetroot was our pick. The zucchini fritters we tried were a little dry and uninspiring, but the charcoal grilled chicken shish kebab more than compensated. It actually had a similar texture and taste to chicken cooked in the tandoor, minus the spices.

The verdict:
Ultra friendly staff, amazingly fresh bread and moreish dips. It’s not a visually inspiring restaurant, but like many good places to eat it’s all about the food.

Sultan’s Table, 179 Enmore Road, Enmore, tel: 02 9557 0229

Sultan's Table on Urbanspoon

The Owl House

The destination:
Small bar and restaurant The Owl House, which was recently named best bar with food by The Sydney Morning Herald’s Good Food Guide. Set in a converted Crown Street terrace near William Street, it mixes a killer cocktail and wine list with a highly enticing food menu spanning influences from Japan to Spain and beyond. (Tip – small wine bar Love Tilly Devine is just around the corner, the perfect place for pre-drink drinks!).

The vibe:
Dark, cozy, intimate and friendly – most of the clientele when we visited were on low-key dates or double dates. The staff were super friendly, even conjuring up a coveted upstairs table for us when it was supposedly full. With its old fireplace and narrow confines, the upstairs room evoked memories of inner city house parties circa the late 90s – homely yet eclectic!

The eats:
We ordered a selection of non-cohesive but nonetheless amazing dishes, starting with the chorizo and manchego croquettes (comfort food at its best) and the fresh oysters with a ‘cloud’ of tequila, lemon, lime and soda – fresh and effervescent! For entree we had the sashimi of bonito with wasabi and cucumber emulsion, daikon, soy dashi jelly and miso cured shizo, and the quail dumpling with crispy pig’s tail, black pudding, scallop congee, shitake mushrooms, coriander and chilli. The quail dumpling dish trumped the sashimi with its interesting combination of ingredients and full flavours. The pig’s tail was crispy and delectable, and the blood pudding a revelation for this first-timer (tastes like chorizo!).

Next, we had the confit lamb shoulder with white eggplant puree, garlic, olives and sweetbreads – the tender lamb was melt in your mouth and as for the sweetbreads, these offputting sounding little morsels were fried balls of crunchy goodness, and it was easy to overlook that they are actually offal! We also had the Blackmore wagyu skirt with crumbed osso bucco, bone marrow, cavollo nero, polenta, spring onions and preserved lemon – beef perfection. There was a limited dessert selection (a cheese board and two sweet offerings) so we opted for gelato and macchiatos around the corner at Bill and Toni’s instead – old school!

The verdict:
Fun, casual bolthole with an unpretentious atmosphere and amazing food and wine – there’s good reason for their SMH award!

The Owl House, 97 Crown Street, Darlinghurst, tel: 02 9357 5060, www.theowlhouse.com.au

The Owl House on Urbanspoon

Have you seen…

Agalico – an amazing, all white teahouse and cake stop in Bangkok

Hi there! I’ve written a little guide to one of my favourite cities, Bangkok, which you can read at my new blog devoured. I’ll be in Bangkok in just over a month – hopefully I’ll come across some cool new places to share!

[Update: the purpose of this post doesn’t make much sense now – it was written before I rolled several blogs into one and was meant to redirect readers from one blog to another!]

City Guide: Bangkok devoured

Bangkok is one of my favourite cities in the entire universe, with the best food and shopping and great decor and design at every turn, not to mention the biggest outdoor market in the world. It’s the most pulsating, amazing, alive place I’ve ever been (and yes, I’ve been to New York!). These are the Bangkok eating, drinking and shopping spots I love, the places I recommend to anyone who asks, and the favourites I frequent time and time again when in the city!

EAT & DRINK

Spring & Summer

Spring & Summer: The coolest complex ever – an outdoor bar on a lawn (Winter), delicious Thai food inside a mid-century modern house (Spring) and a separate dessert restaurant (Summer) for luscious chocolate concoctions and cocktails! 199 Sukhumvit Soi 49 (Promsri), www.springnsummer.com

Eat Me: Like a mod-Oz restaurant transported to Bangkok, the menu here features a mix of influences and flavours. There’s a lengthy wine list and an art gallery on-site – it’s the perfect ‘date night’ restaurant. Soi Pipet 2 (off Convent Road), Silom, www.eatmerestaurant.com

Vertigo at the Banyan Tree: An amazing open air rooftop bar located 61 floors high. I’ve only been here for drinks but you can eat here too. A total must for the breathtaking city views and the fact you’re actually outside up so high. 21/100 South Sathon Road, www.banyantree.com

 

Long Table: A chic, loungey bar with city views and upscale delicious Thai food in the adjoining restaurant. Sit at the eponymous ‘long table’, said to be the longest in Bangkok, or in a cosy booth for something more intimate. Great decor, delicious Northern Thai sausage. One for a splurgey night and a taste of Bangkok chic. 25th floor, 48 Column building, Sukhumvit Soi 16, www.longtablebangkok.com

La Table de Tee: Possibly the best deal in the city.in a little alley in Silom, La Table de Tee offers a 6 course degustation for 900 baht – that’s less than $30!! The chef (Tee) is Thai born, Michelin star restaurant in London trained, and has returned to Bangkok to offer his signature Thai meets French style cuisine. For an up to the minute menu, check their Facebook page. 69/5 Saladaeng Road, Silom, www.latabledetee.com
Food court at MBK (the Thai one on the 6th floor, not the ‘international’ one on the level below): Buy a wad of coupons then swap them for delicious street food style eats in this crowded but well worth the elbow fight food court. A fresh juice from the juice stand is the perfect accompaniment to a fiery plate of pad kee mao. Also – it’s ridiculously cheap. 444 Phayathai Road, Patumwan, www.mbk-center.co.th

 

COFFEE & SWEETS

Ohana: Single origin coffees, yummy patisserie style treats and great western cafe fare, if you’re in need of a spice break. There’s a wall of books for browsing (with lots of good food titles), an indoor tree and floor to ceiling glass windows. Relaxing, chic and some of the best coffee I’ve found in Bangkok. 50/4 Sukhumvit Soi 24 (a few blocks behind Emporium mall), www.ohana.co.th

Agalico: An elegant, peaceful oasis, Agalico is an all-white tea room with a Parisienne feel. It’s a seriously stunning space and the perfect respite from the city’s fast pace. A selection of homemade cakes are on the counter and there’s a beautiful range of teas (I always have vanilla, I think it’s the white surrounds!). Heaven. 20 Sukhumvit Soi 51, www.agalico.co.th

Ka-Nom: A bit of a hi-so Thai hangout (think ladies who lunch, with pet poodle in tow), it’s all about the egg tarts here. You can choose from egg yolk or egg white – my pick is the yolk as they’re so much richer. 122 Sukhumvit Soi 49, www.ka-nom.com

It’s Happened to be a Closet at Siam Square

It’s Happened to be a Closet: A quirky name for a quirky place – this is a vintage clothing shop meets cafe meets beauty salon, so you can peruse colourful outfits, have a well made Lavazza and a luscious dessert, then have your nails done. The Siam Square branch has comfortable couches and a gorgeous maximalist style cafe section tucked upstairs, while at Emporium, another outlet has a luxe private room (or you can sit out the front at both if people watching’s more your thing). 266/3 Siam Square Soi 3, www.itshappenedtobeacloset.wordpress.com

iberry: Highly addictive icecreams and sorbets with fruity, Asiany flavours plus all the caramelly, chocolatey ones too. Love the tamarind and mangosteen…and pretty much everything else on offer. Siam Paragon, Siam Square Soi 2 and more, www.iberryhandmade.com

SHOP

Offerings amidst the market stalls at Chatuchak

Chatuchak Market: The weekend market – Chatuchak – is an absolute must. It’s the largest outdoor market in the world, and stocks everything you’d expect and then some. Best buys here (if you’re not in the market for a new pet) include clothes and accessories by small scale Thai designers, if you can look past the typical touristy stalls to find them. The best way to get to Chatuchak is to catch the skytrain to Mo Chit, and the best time to go is around 10am – not so early the stalls haven’t started opening, but to beat the hordes (and heat) that descend around lunchtime. www.chatuchak.org

Siam Square: An amazing labrynth of fashion focussed tiny stores and market stalls, many with unique, amazing decor. Dedicate some time to weaving in out of the arcades connecting the main sois (streets) for hidden finds – there are many!

Siam Paragon: There are lots of malls in Bangkok, but this is the ultimate. You could spend days here – there’s even an aquarium. Beyond the high-end stores like Jimmy Choo and Marc Jacobs there are ‘normal’ shops like Mango and Zara, Kinokuniya for cheaper than home books, a great department store, the fragrant and fabulous Spice Story, and lots of amazing foodie buys at the Gourmet Market, a supermarket on steroids. There’s also the gorgeous Thai spa brand Harn & Thann for candles, soaps, skincare etc. with Asian scents like jasmine and lemongrass. www.siamparagon.co.th

Thonglor: This is a great neighbourhood for a taste of where trendy Thais and expats live, shop and eat. It’s large and spread out, and many of the great finds are down the side sois, so it takes a bit of time to explore. I could tell you more but I’ll leave it to the experts, as LUXE City Guides have compiled this great Thonglor tour as featured in Living Etc. magazine.

Jim Thompson factory outlet: Head here for discounted yet high quality silk and other textile products from the famous Jim Thompson brand (see here for more on the man who is said to have revived Thailand’s silk industry). Silk placemat and coaster sets, fabric tote bags and cosmetic bags are some of the good buys here, and you can also buy fabrics by the metre if you’re craftily inclined. 153 Soi Sukhumvit 93, www.jimthompson.com

Platinum Fashion Mall: Not for the fainthearted shopper, Platinum is a wholesale clothing and accessory market housed inside a mall. The tiny, crammed stalls and shops do sell by the individual piece, but the price gets cheaper the more you buy. One issue is that you can’t try the clothing on, but the prices are cheap so it’s worth the ‘buy it anyway’ gamble. To get an idea of prices, I’ve bought dresses and tops here for 150-200 baht a piece (i.e. around $5-6). Like any market or cheap mall in Asia there’s alot of tacky stuff but some really cool finds too! 222 (Pratunam) Petchaburi Road, www.platinumfashionmall.com

STAY

Cheap
Atlanta Hotel: Amazing, retro lobby (the highlight), a strict no sexpat policy, cheap but delicious Thai food at the 50s diner style restaurant plus a pool, and the skytrain’s at the end of the street The rooms are very basic though (think an old school, dated Khao San Road area guesthouse room, but cleaner). 78 Soi 2 Sukhumvit Road, www.theatlantahotelbangkok.com

Mid Range
Novotel Siam Square: A stock standard, found everywhere, international chain hotel, with an awesome location smack bang in the middle of the Siam shopping madness. I’ve stayed here three or four times now and I love being able to walk out the door to a world of Bangkok shopping on my doorstep, or to get a massage at one of the cheap and cheerful places across the road from the hotel’s side entrance. 392/44 Siam Square Soi 6, www.novotel.com

The ‘levitating’ beds at Dream

Boutique
Dream Bangkok: Funky, futuristic Dream uses a soothing blue and white colour palette with glowing blue light emitting from beneath the bed. It’s comfortable, chic and comes with extra comforts like nice toiletries and magazines in the room. The hotel’s Flava Restaurant and Lounge has delicious contemporary cuisine and decor, and the bar’s experimental cocktails are amazing. I loved my stay here – it’s perfect for couples. 10 Sukhumvit Soi 15, www.dreambkk.com

5 star
Sheraton Grande Sukhumvit: Great, central location with the skytrain literally on the doorstep, the Sheraton offers efficient, smooth service and rooms a little larger than the norm. The bathroom’s extra large too – if you’re not looking for boutiquey cool (and Bangkok has plenty of that), it’s a really solid, comfortable option. 250 Sukhumvit Road, www.sheratongrandesukhumvit.com

Guest post on Le fabuleux destin

Kampot’s shophouse-lined streets –  full of faded charm!

One of my favourite travel blogs, Le fabuleux destin, features the most stunning photography from the talented Kristina (who is Swiss-based but soon relocating to Melbourne). She just invited me to be part of her Travel Snapshots series, which so far features Italy, Mexico and Berlin (and now Cambodia!). You can see my guest post about Kep and Kampot in beautiful southern Cambodia here.

These were two of my favourite places to visit when we lived in Cambodia – beautiful, eerie, surreal Kep with its faded, crumbling villas amidst a lush tropical setting, and charming Kampot with its shophouses, French colonial buildings and peaceful riverfront. I miss them! Thanks for featuring me Kristina!

Zumbo’s by sea

Despite the lure of lesser queues at Cre Asion (although that might have changed in the last few weeks?!) I braved Zumbo’s again, and let’s just say weekdays are a whole different story (less people, more macarons!). From ‘The Lab’, Adriano Zumbo’s cafe and Willy Wonka-esque pastry making kitchen in Rozelle, we picked up a few of his latest macaron flavours:  butterscotch caramel, salted butter popcorn and coffee cream brulee (complete with crunchy sugar coating). The perfect spot to devour them? Perched by the harbour at a small beach backed by parkland in beautiful Birchgrove. Sydney bliss! (Oh, and I recommend buying the butterscotch caramel by the truckload, they’re that good!).

Links to devour

Dishoom pop-up restaurant (London)

Food trends and new Sydney eats – the SMH Good Food Guide 2012 is out

A Sydney caffeine hit list to drink your way through

The Unbearable Lightness of Being Hungry has posted an excellent round-up of the year’s best new places to drink and eat (yes, Sydney again). The to-do list just got a lot longer!

This pop-up Indian restaurant in London is so colourful and kitsch

Inspirational photo blogger, Louise from 52 Suburbs has an exciting international project planned

So excited to stay out in the rice paddies at Bueng Pai Farm in two months time (in northern Thailand)!

Image courtesy Fast Co. Design via Ivy & Piper

Lao heaven at Holy Basil, Canley Heights

The destination:

Cabramatta’s quieter cousin Canley Heights for Lao/Thai food at Holy Basil.

The vibe:
Let’s just say this place could have been transported straight from Crown Street, Surry Hills to far flung suburban Sydney. Gorgeous, mod-Asian decor (gold buddha statues, a wall of mortar and pestles, splashes of hot pink), a bar, open kitchen, outdoor seating for a post-meal Toby’s Estate…If this is the new face of southwest Sydney, I think some more weekend excursions are in order!

The eats:
The menu features Lao specialities with some old faithful Thai dishes (yum, but yawn). We ate nam tok (a Lao beef salad laden with fresh herbs), kai yang (Lao charcoal grilled chicken), Lao sausage and steaming hot sticky rice served in individual baskets.

The verdict:
The price is right though some say high for the area (most dishes are in the $10-15 range), the decor is gorgeous, the service swift and the food, amazing. The soft Lao sausage fragrant with lemongrass and kaffir lime was my favourite. If only it was a little closer to home. Closer than Laos, at least!

Holy Basil, 233A Canley Vale Road, Canley Heights, tel: 02 9727 7585

Holy Basil on Urbanspoon

Ashfield day, Shanghai Night

The destination:

Shanghai Night for northern Chinese cuisine in the heart of Ashfield’s bustling restaurant and food shopping strip – think Indian spice stores, seafood shops, huge fruit and veg emporiums and copious Chinese restaurants (did someone say dumplings?!).

The vibe:
A busy, buzzing, happy, family oriented scene heavy on Chinese patrons, with no frills decor complete with colourful cardboard signage showcasing the specials.

The eats:
Dumplings (of course!) in the form of pork and crab soup dumplings and a pork and coriander variety, with a huge platter of spicy Sichuan chicken, one of the restaurant’s ‘winter specials’.

The verdict:
The delicious pork and coriander dumplings dunked in vinegar trumped the ‘not quite as good as Din Tai Fung’ soup dumplings (though they definitely beat DTF for price), while the Sichuan chicken was bursting with spice, heat and flavour. A winner for a cheap and cheerful foray into Ashfield’s Asian food scene.

Shanghai Night, 275 Liverpool Road, Ashfield, tel: 02 9798 8437

Shanghai Night on Urbanspoon