121BC and District Dining

On a mission to find new Italian wine bar 121BC we stumbled around Surry Hills’ Holt Street for what seemed like eternity. After a few misses and a quick enquiry at nearby Vini (121BC’s big sister bar and restaurant) we were on our way down the adjacent alleyway, meeting another lost couple enroute. Reason for all the confusion – it’s listed in some places as 4/50 Holt Street without the all important ‘enter via Gladstone Street’ (don’t enter 50 Holt Street itself or you’ll just be in the lobby of an office building!).

Finally inside 121BC, we were seated at the one long communal table. A blackboard list of Italian whites on the left and reds on the right was before us and the staff made some excellent recommendations. We loved the atmosphere, the unique and amazing wines, the customer service and the idea you can purchase a full bottle of your favourite at the adjacent wine shop. Small bar perfection!

Mondrian-esque map at District Dining’s entrance

Next, it was onto dinner at District Dining, the more casual offering from 2-hatted Assiette’s Warren Turnbull.

Devoured:
1 bottle of Spanish white (Albarino)
Scallops with artichoke, pancetta and prune
Kingfish with wasabi pannacotta, quinoa and ponzu
Roasted spatchcock, sweetcorn, succotash and bacon
Braised beef cheek, cauliflower, pedro ximenez and prunes
Dark chocolate brownie, macadamia brittle, white chocolate icecream
Mandarin brulee, cardamom and poached mandarin
2 macchiatos (using organic Allpress coffee)

The seafood entrees were both delicious, with the scallops beautifully cooked and the wasabi pannacotta the perfect accompaniment to the super fresh kingfish. The spatchcock had an amazing cajun-like seasoning which made the dish, and the beef cheeks were unbelievably tender (and our overall favourite dish of the night). The desserts weren’t of the to-die-for variety with the brownie a little low on the chocolate factor, but the brulee’s dynamic cardamom and mandarin flavour combo managed to compensate.

Verdict? District Dining was casually and comfortably cool, with friendly service and a moreish menu. I now feel compelled to return and try the quail eggs with tarragon mayo and, well, pretty much everything else we didn’t order!

121BC Cantina & Enoteca, 4/50 Holt St (enter via Gladstone St), Tel: 02 9699 1582, www.121bc.com.au


121 BC on Urbanspoon


District Dining, 17 Randle St, Surry Hills, Tel: 02 9211 7798, www.districtdining.com.au


District Dining on Urbanspoon

Art and tea at White Rabbit

Contemporary Chinese art…a teahouse…a converted former knitting factory…a cool backstreet Chippendale location…White Rabbit gallery ticks all the right boxes for a dose of modern Asia in downtown Sydney. It’s a family owned gallery featuring an extensive private collection of Chinese art created since the year 2000 – all for the public’s free viewing pleasure.

The gallery’s current exhibition, A Decade of the Rabbit, features colourful, innovative works by contemporary Chinese artists, from neon Chinese signage to a recreation of a typical doorway found in suburban Chinese cities woven entirely from thread. It’s colourful, intriguing, inspiring, thought provoking, nostalgic yet fresh.

Back on ground level, the birdcage adorned tea house features an extensive menu of loose leaf teas from whites, greens and oolongs to those flavoured with roses, lychees and goji berries. Labelled tins featuring samples of each tea leaf variety are on the centre of each table to smell.

Devoured:
Jin Xuan, a Taiwanese milk oolong with a distinct smooth and sweet flavour, and Yin Zhen (or Silver Needle), a delicate, premium white tea. Both were amazing but I preferred the milk oolong’s more unique taste.

White Rabbit, 30 Balfour Street, Chippendale NSW 2008, +61 (02) 8399 2867, open Thurs-Sun 10am-6pm

White Rabbit Teahouse on Urbanspoon

Welcome!

Welcome to devoured, a new (and hopefully improved) Australia-based version of my old blog A Girl in Asia, which uncovered good eats, crushworthy cafes, places to see and stay and the odd shopping find in southeast Asia.

Sydney-based and Asian flavoured, devoured is: a pot of chai in Glebe, a trek to Fairfield for Lao food, a night at a Crown Street wine bar and a mini-break to Bangkok. It’s a trip to an art gallery and a rummage through a Lebanese supermarket in Bankstown, washed down with a strong espresso shot and a cocktail or two. devoured is part exploration, part inspiration, with lots of good things to eat and drink along the way. Read on, subscribe, comment – I look forward to having you along on this new blogging journey!

Goodbye, Vietnam!

It feels surreal to be saying goodbye but it’s my last day in Vietnam today! The bags are packed, the farewells have been said, and tomorrow morning we fly to Bangkok for one last Asian mini-break (ok, and shopping spree) before heading back to Sydney to live.

It’s been an amazing four and a half years living in Phnom Penh and then Saigon – full of the some of the biggest ups and downs I’ve ever felt but overall, a life changing experience. During that time I’ve travelled lots, had two kids and scored my dream job (Deputy Editor of a magazine!). I’ve made some amazing friends in both cities, eaten a ridiculous amount of great food and drunk copious amounts of good coffee. I’ve forgotten how to clean(!) and how to catch public transport – the adjustment to life back in the ‘real world’ may be a tough one! I’m really looking forward to fresh air, parks, empty sidewalks and comparatively empty roads, Sydney stuff like farmers markets and art galleries and concerts and events, catching up with old friends and rediscovering pretty much everything.

There are lots of things I’ll miss (mostly food and people and cheap stuff!) but lots of things I won’t (the traffic, the pollution, the noise – don’t get me started on the noise!). I think it’ll be a tumultuous time ahead re-establishing a life in Sydney, but hopefully it will feel like the right move. As for blogging – I’ve loved connecting with like-minded souls around the world and don’t want the virtual friendships to end! I’m not sure of the fate of A Girl in Asia just yet (I don’t want to say goodbye!) and I’ll definitely continue reading and commenting on all my favourite blogs. Please drop by now and then as I may post a link to a new Sydney-based blog once I’m on my feet and think up my next blogging move! Better go – there’s still a little more packing to do in our over-stuffed bags which somehow have to fit lots of Bangkok purchases too(!).

{Saigon Eats} Cuc Gach Quan

I have just been (for the second time in less than a week!) to one of the most stunning, inspiring, elegant, amazing restaurants, and it’s right in my neighbourhood! I can’t believe I’ve only been introduced to this place two weeks before I depart Saigon, so obviously, a few more visits are in order!

Cuc Gach Quan is a Vietnamese ‘country’ style restaurant, with its menu offering a nod to the way dishes were once prepared – without msg or ingredients affected by fertilisers. The tofu and the soy sauce are homemade, and the juices are natural and pure with no sugar added, but a little jug of honey is served on the side. The food is delicious (especially the lemongrass tofu and the pork in claypot) and the decor is amazing, with antique/distressed wood furniture, gorgeous blue and white crockery and drinks served in glass bottles with rolled up banana leaf stoppers. There’s a fish and turtle pond between the front room and the open kitchen at the back, and a steep staircase leading up to more gorgeous seating. The restaurant is architect owned and designed – and it shows!

I’m in love with this place, and I can’t wait to go back. For more about Cuc Gach Quan, see this piece in Travel + Leisure, or check out some of the feature articles on its website.

Cuc Gach Quan, 10 Dang Tat, Tan Dinh, District 1, Saigon, Tel: 38480144 or 01657101010


Images courtesy Cuc Gach Quan

Obsessed… in Saigon

Mini profiteroles at L’Usine

I love to try new things as much as the next person, but sometimes, I obsess over tried and true favourites I must order, must eat or must buy! In Phnom Penh, I couldn’t get enough of the brownies at The Shop, the Kampot pepper chocolate at Chocolate by the Shop, the lasagne at Pop…the list goes on. Here in Saigon, I’ve also built up a repertoire of regulars I can’t live without (and yes, I realise they’re not exactly ‘Vietnamese’ foods but I think I take commonly available things for granted, seeking out rarer, more craveworthy things!). Current obsessions include:

Fanny icecream – particularly mint and choc chip and vanilla macadamia, and their seasonal Asian flavours like ginger and anise. This might be my overall favourite Vietnamese brand – of anything!
Pacharan – I must have the chorizo at least once a month (I know – so bad for food miles – it’s flown in from Spain). The gambas al pil pil (garlic prawns) are pretty addictive too.
Au Parc – nemisis cake, nemisis cake, nemisis cake – I must have eaten my weight in this decadent chocolate concoction since moving to Saigon. Or maybe even more.
Shang Palace – I’ve always loved yum cha (or dim sum as it’s known here), but Shang Palace has become something of an obsession. Though I’m off to Ocean Palace tomorrow (the one near the zoo) just to mix it up a little!
Da Vinci’s – a home delivered pizza place I’ve somehow only just cottoned onto. So good, and so much better than the other Italian places we’ve tried. My pick – the Greek pizza with olives and feta!
Saigon Square – the city’s answer to Phnom Penh’s Russian Market. I love trawling the crowded stalls for clothing bargains, like a check shirt I just got for a steal. Even better are the kids clothes, should you need them.
Kita Cafe – the coffee here (Lavazza – not Vietnamese, I know!) is the smoothest brew I’ve come across in the city. When I’m over my cafe sua da’s at local places I crave a Kita cappuccino.
L’Usine – any dessert. So far have tried their mini profiteroles with raspberry sauce, chocolate fudge cake and their latest addition – cupcakes! All… so… good!

Time is fast running out for getting my favourite food (and shopping) fixes here as I’m soon moving back to Sydney, where a whole world of gastronomic temptation awaits (yay!). In the meantime, I need to make the most of what I like best about Saigon (and block out the rest!).

Image courtesy of L’Usine

Friday fun – AGIA in words

What’s A Girl in Asia all about? According to Wordle, mostly food (yes!), with a bit of love, people and blogs thrown in for good measure. Glad coffee, travel and Muji are there too, but not sure how ‘dog’ made the cut! What does your blog say about you?!

Wordle: A Girl in Asia
(Click here to enlarge)

{Behind the Blog} Marie of Shantiwallah

Marie in Laos

Shantiwallah has been one of my must-read blogs for some time now, so I’m happy to introduce you to its author, Marie. Her time living in Asia has had an obvious impact on her life, which is reflected so beautifully in this recent blog post. She’s also a freelance writer and finds the time to maintain a food focussed blog called Five Flavours. Here’s more on Marie:


Where have you lived, and where are you now?
I lived in various parts of the United States until I was 18. Since then I’ve lived in England, Vietnam, Japan and New Zealand, which is where I am now. I’ve also spent a lot of time in Thailand including some short term work. I am a US/NZ dual national.

Why do you blog?
Like many people, I started blogging to keep in touch with friends and family. Since then it has really become a place for me to practice my writing and put it in front of real live people (before that it was all in books made of paper that stay on my shelves) and to connect with like-minded souls of which, it seems, there are many. That’s what I love about the internet.

Where did the name ‘Shantiwallah’ come from? What does it mean?
It’s about how I see others as my teachers. I’ve written about it in more detail here.

Can you tell us about Five Flavours, your food website? 
I started my food blog in order to talk about the connections between food, people and culture. I’ve always loved how people use food to connect and enjoy finding out the story behind a particular recipe or way of cooking. If you ask anyone what their favourite food is, even if they just tell you the name of it, they will have a story in their mind as to why they like that particular thing. Very often these stories are connected to other people.

What are you currently…

…reading?
The Poisonwood Bible. It’s been on my shelf for ages from one of my English language book binges that I used to go on when I lived in Asia and came across a sale. I know now there are Kindle readers, but as far as I know Kindles still don’t have that new book smell, so…

…listening to?
I’m rediscovering my old CDs (remember CDs?) that I stored while I was in Asia. They are all 6+ years old so it’s like a time warp. I’m slowly uploading or ditching them. I’d love some new music!

…watching?
Not a lot at the moment. New Zealand TV goes through phases of good and bad which is good for me because I’d rather not suck up my evenings with addictive TV. There are a lot of awesome docos on the Maori Channel and they also play really good foreign films. I did watch the Chilean miner rescue. Oh my God, humans are amazing!

…cooking?
I’m into Central Asian food at the moment from old Silk Route places. I love how the recipes change through the various countries with local additions to ingredients or a slight change in name but you can still recognize them as being related.

…eating?
At the moment it is starting to get a wee bit more spring-like so my husband and I have been overindulging on lighter summery Japanese food such as zaru soba and other cold noodles and salads.

…drinking?
This week it was something we really miss from living in a specialty region of Japan, sake! My husband, who is an ex-scientist, writes a tongue in cheek blog called the Journal of Applied Drinks Studies International where he reviews random drinks we find in our local supermarket and small shops. I am one of his “research assistants” so we try to do a tasting at least once a week. We also drink a lot of New Zealand wines, and on a different note, I am pretty much obsessed with tea of all kinds.

…wearing?
It’s been so cold that I’ve been I’ve mostly been wearing jeans and hoodies, But now that it’s warming up I’m looking forward to wearing something with a bit more style to it.

…planning?
More short escapes around New Zealand. Last month my husband took 6 days off work and we drove down to the Hawke’s Bay wine country. It was the first time we’d been down there and it was fantastic. They’ve got a wonderful local food and wine scene. Long term we’d like to save enough money to go abroad again, but since I’m still pretty new at the freelance writing game our income is limiting.

…obsessed with?
Nostalgia for travelling. I’m still getting my business going and it’s a wee bit hard for me to be grounded in one place. It’s all good though!

Thanks Marie!

{Shoptalk} Le Van Au Furniture

I now feel a little bit more in the secret Saigon know with reader Franziska’s revelation of a stockpile of charming old, restored furniture – the kind you wish you could find but seems few and far between in rapidly modernising Saigon.

Wrought iron lanterns, antique wooden chests, art deco sideboards and gorgeous chests of drawers compete for space in a rustic old tin roofed shed, with a further (and better) treasure trove inside a dark, cavernous warehouse through an old wooden blue door to the right.

No purchases were made (this time) but thoughts of sending pieces home by the shipping crate load definitely crossed my mind!

Where? Look for the Pho 2000 on Pasteur, just off Le Loi and across the road from the Paris Deli and Cafe Terrace at Saigon Centre. Enter the decrepit looking archway to the right that leads to a motorbike parking area, and all will be revealed!

Le Van Au Furniture, 122 Pasteur, D1, Saigon, Tel: 0903 701 426