{Saigon} Loving/Hating

Liz / / 10 Comments

Gorgeous L’Usine

LOVING

  • Sunday dim sum at Shang Palace – no trolley ladies but great taro and chicken balls, bbq pork buns, soup dumplings, har cao, everything!
  • Imagining that new fashion/lifestyle store L’Usine is my apartment (but in New York!), with its 1930s garment factory style furnishings and fitouts, art gallery and soon-to-be cafe
  • That there’s a new organic vegetable store in An Phu with produce fresh from Dalat – planning to go there this week and am food-nerdily excited
  • Snap Cafe – sand, playground, toys and friends for little Z, lentil/feta/beetroot/bacon salad for me
  • Planning escapes to Bangkok, Hoi An and Hanoi over the next few months
  • Friends and family visiting in April
  • Making pumpkin and sweet potato soup with veges from the market
  • (…or hating?) ridiculous 80s compilations played in taxis (think Foreigner, Air Supply and Belinda Carlisle!)
  • Finding this blog post on ‘Stuff that Saigon Expat People Like’ (scroll towards the end for the actual list)
HATING
  • That a box of frozen blueberries costs over US$20…and lamely buying them anyway ”because I need them in my breakfast smoothie!”
  • Impromptu karaoke sessions outside my window
  • The rising temperatures – hello hot season
  • Random power cuts
  • Being greeted with “you look fat today!” and a big grin because it’s meant to be a compliment
  • That some of the things I like are on the above mentioned ‘Stuff that Saigon Expat People Like’ list!
Image courtesy L’Usine

{behind the blog} Leela Cyd

Liz / / 3 Comments
Welcome to my latest series on A Girl in Asia – ‘behind the blog’ – delving into the people behind some of the blogs I love to read, and perhaps you do (or will!) too.
First to be profiled is Leela Cyd, whose eponymous blog has a strong food and travel bent and chronicles her adventures with her husband as they traverse the globe. I met up with Leela on her Saigon stint a couple of months ago, and she’s as friendly, fun and creative in real life as she is in her blog!



Behind the blog: LEELA CYD
Where do you live/where are you now?
I am based out of Portland, Oregon in the US, but have been living out of my suitcase for the past 6 months on a big trip – stopping for lengthy visits (renting a flat) in India, Vietnam and now, Istanbul, Turkey. I’m currently sitting on a peach-colored Victorian sofa in our flat in the Nisantasi neighborhood in Istanbul. I love this city!
What do you blog about?
I blog primarily about food (mainly recipes I’ve developed), travel and everything that happens in between. My blog is also a home for my travel articles and images I sometimes post/feature on other sites.
What are you currently…
…reading?
I am reading a wonderful book called “Istanbul, City of the World’s Desire” by Phillip Mansel about the city and its colorful history under the rule of the Ottoman Empire. For anyone traveling to Turkey or interested in history, it is a fabulous account.
…listening to?
I listen to music sure – the Beatles and Sam Cooke mostly, but more often – I listen to podcasts. I love this American Life, Good Food (KCRW, hosted by Evan Kleiman), Savage Love (Dan Savage), Npr’s culturetopia and food stories . . . as well as books on CD. I love the feeling of being read to. And with all my podcasts, I can feel connected to something familiar – mostly American stories – while being so far away. I just cannot bring myself to do the dishes or other house chores without listening to a story.
…watching?
My favorite show is HBO’s the Wire. we just re-watched a few of our favorite seasons (1 and 3) and it was still so good. A warning though – this show is hugely addictive, I don’t recommend getting involved with it unless you are prepared to spending your evenings completely glued. We also just found a new site that streams interesting art films from various sources – www.ubu.com and watched a film about Iran by Albert Lamorisse (the same person who made ‘The Red Balloon’). It was an amazing film which he died shooting, in a tragic helicopter accident.
…eating?
I’m super into lentil soup right now – it is sold all over Istanbul for only 2 dollars (US) a bowl and it is so satisfying and simple. They use a lot of lemon and dried mint, so it has a unique flavor I’ve never had in a lentil soup before. It’s the perfect dinner when paired with a nice crusty piece of bread.
…wearing?
I’m actually wearing a Turkish house dress. In every new country we visit, I buy at least one article of night-time wear, be it pajamas or a night gown or house coat of some sort, and wear it around the hotel or apartment we are staying at. It’s a great way to get a slice of local life and it’s very cozy.
…planning?
I’m planning a way to teach vegetarian cooking classes when we arrive home to Portland in June.
…obsessed with?
finding the perfect slice of cake. i love cake.
Favourite cuisines?
Turkish, Indian, Vietnamese, Italian – I don’t think I’ve met a certain cuisine I didn’t like. I’m a devout eater, and will try anything not involving animals.
Favourite travel destinations?
Panjim, Mumbai, Bangalore and Belur/Halebidu in India, Ho Chi Minh City, Vietnam, Sevilla, Spain, Amsterdam (where my husband and I really fell in love), New York City, Santa Barbara (my hometown!), California, Istanbul and of course, Portland, Oregon.
If you could live anywhere in the world for a year, where and why?
I’d live in New York City, it’s a playground for adults – there’s so much good food, art and fashion all in one place … I don’t think I’d run out of fun there. Especially if I was living in a fantasy world where money flowed like a river straight into my pocket.
Who/what inspires you?
My family and my husband inspire me the most to dream big and work hard – my parents are both teachers, artists and writers – my brother the most creative writer and teacher I know, and, lastly, my husband Dave is my favorite painter, thinker, dreamer in all of the world. His interest in seeing, tasting and experiencing everything to the fullest is my biggest inspiration, especially during this crazy travel period of our lives.
3 of your must-read blogs?
I love — thekitchn.com (not really a blog)
garancedore.fr/en — French Fashion glamour lady writing, photos and illustration at its best
eatingisart.com — Tricia’s love of food, art, health and design come together in her amazing site. She is an inspired individual, and good friend in Portland.
Thanks Leela!

My 3 Best Kept Travel Secrets – for Tripbase

Liz / / 5 Comments
Travel ideas website Tripbase have initiated a travel secrets project, where bloggers reveal their best kept travel secrets then tag some fellow bloggers to do the same, with the results to be featured in an upcoming e-book. I was tagged by Cate from Caffeinated Traveller to take part, so here’s my contribution. I’ve decided to base it on the sometimes underrated Cambodian capital (and my former home of 2 and a half years!) Phnom Penh…

Phnom Penh – more than just girlie bars and gunfights!

Dusty, friendly, charming Phnom Penh is often overshadowed by tourist drawcard Siem Reap, with some tourists skipping the capital altogether in favour of non-stop temple exploration at Angkor Wat. Yes, Siem Reap is a fantastic place to visit, but Phnom Penh shouldn’t be forgotten! With its cliched reputation as a somewhat dangerous city where the Killing Fields and Toul Sleng genocide museum rate highly on most visitors’ must-see lists, its more cosmopolitan aspects are a revelation to those not already in the Phnom Penh know. And it offers some of the best bargains in Asia, or perhaps anywhere!! Here are but a few good things about ‘the Penh’:

Street 240’s Bliss (by name and by nature)

1. Handmade, homemade, unique shopping
A combination of factors make Phnom Penh a perfect place for some serious retail therapy. Firstly, Cambodian silk from nearby towns and villages like Takeo feature heavily in the city’s many tiny boutiques. The silk is of high quality and great value for money, with some places (like Sentosa Silk and Tabitha) selling rough or smooth varieties in a rainbow of colours for US$8-10 a metre. Cushions, bedspreads, bags and clothing made of Cambodian silk are all fantastic and unique buys.

A silk weaver at work at the aptly named ‘Silk Island’ just outside Phnom Penh

The proliferation of NGOs in the city who engage Cambodia’s needy with crafty pursuits means there are lots of unique, handmade items for sale, like wallets and bags made of recycled rice bags, handsewn soft toys for children and all things rattan for very low prices. Then there’s the influx of talented foreigners who have set up shop in the capital, resulting in some gorgeous boutiques combining European style with Cambodian artistry. Street 240 is the place to head (especially clothing and homeware store Bliss, which also houses a spa, and Waterlily for creative handmade jewellery). I could go on and on, but you’ll have to explore for yourself!!
2. Fragrant, coveted Cambodian pepper

Pepper grown in Cambodia’s south (predominantly the charming, crumbling, riverside town of Kampot) is highly fragrant and an integral part of Cambodian cuisine. In French colonial days it was highly coveted by French chefs, and graced the menus of top Paris restaurants. A resurgence of the pepper industry in recent years means Phnom Penhites are spoiled with some of the finest pepper in the world at their gastronomic disposal. The pepper is sold all over the city in souvenir-ey type shops, but for a only a few dollars you can pick up a bag of Cambodian peppercorns (organic, no less!) from Lucky or Pencil Supermarkets.

Charming Kampot – Cambodian pepper HQ
3. Ridiculously cheap alcohol
Thanks to Cambodia’s laxness with tax and penchant for all kinds of shady cross-border trade, alcohol is exceedingly cheap. Most bars will pass on the savings (think cocktails for around US$3-4 and beers from $1!) but the real bargains are to be found in the city’s supermarkets (with especially good selections at Thai Huot, Bayon and Pencil). Basic spirits like Stolichnya and Absolut vodka can be found from US$6-9, Bailey’s for US$11-12 and Grand Marnier for US$16, with everything else somewhere in between. It’s a recipe for disaster for some off the rails expats, but really, who’s complaining?!
Now for the tagging part… I’m nominating the following bloggers to share their travel secrets too:
1. Charlie from Bali Beach Bunny
2. Marie from Shantiwallah
3. Vivian from Lost in Translation

{Saigon Eats} MOF Japanese Sweets & Coffee

Liz / / 4 Comments



For a gelato fix (read – not frozen yoghurt, most Saigonites sweet cold treat of choice these days) my favourite place in the city is MOF (Ministry of Food). The Japanese dessert cafe is home to a gorgeous fish motif covered wall, a delectable display of gelato and an intriguing menu of mostly matcha flavoured desserts. Matcha rears its head in the gelato counter too, and the deep green result is strong and bitter – a glass of Japanese green tea brought to life in icy form. The Japanese tangerine is a little mild but tangy and delicious, but my absolute favourite is the Ferrero Rocher flavour. Bonus points for the well stocked magazine rack!

MOF, 30 Le Loi Blvd, D1, Saigon

{Thailand} Beach bliss in Khao Lak

Liz / / 6 Comments


We started our Year of the Tiger with a trip to Thailand, escaping a week of deserted streets and closed everything as Saigon virtually shut down for Tet (Vietnamese New Year week). We stayed 6 nights at a resort on Pakweb Beach – a long stretch of undeveloped beach just north of Khao Lak in southern Thailand. It was a very different Thai beach experience to my others – no beach bars, no (evil) buckets and no backpackers. Instead – the fairly empty beach was backed by jungle with one resort in the middle and not a dreadlocked firetwirler in sight! Luckily (as otherwise it would have been a bit TOO undeveloped for my liking) there were a few Thai beach shack restaurants tucked away at each end. We fell in love with the delicious food at a little family run hut called RimLay Seafood and ended up eating there most nights. Coconuts and larb gai – mmm….! Now – it’s back to sunny Saigon and wondering what the Year of the Tiger will hold for us!

{Saigon Eats} Red Hot Wok

Liz / / 10 Comments

I have a new Saigon food obsession that’s overtaken my cravings for fried chicken from the mosque, nemesis cake from Au Parc and set menus at Ty Coz – salt and pepper squid at Red Hot Wok!
Red Hot Wok opened a few months back down a pokey little alley way just round a corner from Nguyen Hue. It’s run by a friendly middle-aged Aussie-Vietnamese couple and the food reminds me very much of that found in Australian Chinatowns and cheap and cheerful Chinese food court restaurants. Think wok fried dishes served on sizzling cows (you know – the black iron kind), stir fried noodle dishes and plates of yummy Asian greens. The squid is my ultimate recommendation though – deep fried with a hint of szechuan pepper, topped with a mix of fried garlic, shallots and chilli. At Red Hot Wok it’s called something like ‘Deep fried squid with salt and chilli’ but really, it’s the dish we all know and love as ‘salt and pepper squid’. Am so happy to have finally found a good version of this dish in Saigon – yay!


Beef with black pepper (which is really, really tender) and my beloved squid
Red Hot Wok, 9/12 Huynh Thuc Khang, D1 (open 11am til…4am!)

{NYC} Lower East Side eats & drinks

Liz / / 12 Comments

The Lower East Side is another New York neighbourhood we really loved, so much so that we spent several afternoons and nights sampling its cool bars and great eats. The LES is a grungy yet gentrifying area (noticing a theme here?!) that was the first home of many Jewish settlers in New York and went on to house many other immigrant communities in densely populated tenement housing. These days it still seems to have a bit of an edge and has a thriving bar and restaurant scene, with vibrant Ludlow Street the centre of the action.

Where we drank
Schillers – a gorgeous, atmospheric bar by the owner of Balthazar (in Soho) and Pastis (in the Meatpacking District), with a vintage European style and great cocktails. And a quirky bathroom with a communal, retro sink that seemed to be a drawcard for some nosy drop-ins!
Los Feliz (Tequileria & Taqueria) – moody, dark and mirrored with a tequila and margarita menu as long as your arm – we loved sitting at the bar talking (and drinking) tequila at this decadent looking place. Their jalapeno-infused tequila was amazing!
Spitzer’s Corner – a cool, rowdy bar with craft beers, satisfying pub food and long tables crammed with cool college kids. Here we were strangely asked for ID, which they then scanned with a machine (hello paranoia, we’re 31!) but then noticed everyone else was being asked too. NYC bars can be really strict and we’re glad we took our passports with us after an earlier scare at DBA in the East Village (we managed to talk our way in despite being ID-less, luckily!)
Allen & Delancey – an upmarket gothic/chic bar that was perhaps my favourite of the whole trip. Here we sat by the front window having extra-dirty martinis pre-dinner at Little Giant and wishing we lived in New York.


Where we ate
Katz’s Deli – “I’ll have what she’s having!” Katz’s is the famous Jewish deli where ‘that’ scene in When Harry Met Sally was filmed. This wasn’t somewhere initially on our radar, but when we stumbled across it decided to give it a try, especially given we’d never eaten Jewish deli food before. Sampled – a hard salami sandwich that was about 20cm high (slice upon slice of meat stacked up high – pretty disgusting actually!), a yummier potato knish (like a big mashed potato patty, fried) and matzo ball soup – a silky, delicate, doughy dumpling in a comforting broth. Katz’s has been going since 1888 and is something of a New York institution. I’d go back for the soup but skip the salami!


Sugar Sweet Sunshine – Years after Magnolia Bakery appeared in SATC sparking a cupcake eating frenzy, the trend refuses to die. We spotted many cupcakeries while out and about in the city and sampled several, only to be disheartened at the sickly sweetness of them all (which is saying something, coming from a dessert devotee). I think it’s something to do with the fact the icing (or frosting) is equally as high as the cake part rather than thinly spread over the cake like the old school Australian kind. At Sugar Sweet Sunshine we tried the red velvet, pistachio, lemon and ‘Ooey Gooey’ – chocolate with almond buttercream (the lemon was the best). I really wanted to like these but I think the reality didn’t live up to the less cloying cupcakes of my imagination.

Little Giant – a ‘seasonal American’ restaurant that was one of our best New York eats. Cosy and unpretentious, Little Giant embodies the slow food ideal that has taken hold of the NYC food scene, where locally grown, seasonal, and preferably organic produce is used. I had the mushroom and cauliflower with poached egg and truffle oil to start (heavenly) followed by sea scallops with grapes, cauliflower puree and hazelnuts. We shared some sides like a gourmet version of mac and cheese (now I understand American’s fascination with this dish – though I still think I only like the gourmet version!) and three desserts between four of us – meyer lemon fritters, sticky toffee pudding and a chocolate mint sundae. I highly, highly, highly recommend Little Giant if you’re in NYC!

{NYC} Highlights of the Meatpacking District

Liz / / 6 Comments

One area we really loved wandering around while in NYC was the Meatpacking District. It had a totally different look to the other downtown neighbourhoods, with wider footpaths and low rise, converted industrial buildings (including remnants of its namesake meatpacking plants).

The once no-go neighbourhood is now home to high-end fashion stores, boutique hotels and chic eateries like Pastis, where we stopped for creme brulee and people watching.

Nearby were these striking wall murals of Madonna by a street artist called Mr Brainwash.


We ventured up to the much talked about Highline – a disused railway line that’s recently been converted into a park and public space, spanning the Meatpacking District to Chelsea.
Here’s the view looking down….

…and the view above of The Standard – a stunning design hotel (that’s part of the Highline underneath).

…and a close-up of the urban-meets-nature Highline where rustic railway tracks merge with wild plants – so effective and pretty.

At the moment I’m…

Liz / / 9 Comments

Watching: True Blood (quirky, sordid and much better than Twilight!)

Reading: The 4-hour work week by Timothy Ferris (lots of interesting ideas…)
Perusing: new home/decor online mag Lonny (lots of pretty pics and inspiration)
Drinking: Spicy chai (with Cambodian palm sugar and milk)
Eating: Pizza and cookies (but making salad tonight to compensate!)
Loving: 40,000 dong tops and 50,000 dong pedicures (we’re talking $2-3!)
Looking forward to: A trip to Phnom Penh in a few weeks (dying for a brownie from The Shop and stocking up at Russian Market, Bliss, Ambre etc. etc….!)
….how about you?