Halong Bay: the good, the bad and the slightly unsightly (ok, ugly!)

Liz / / 8 Comments

We recently went on an overnight boat trip on beautiful Halong Bay with some visiting family. To most people, Halong Bay needs no introduction. If you haven’t seen the iconic images of Halong Bay’s limestone peaks jutting out of jade green sea, then you may have seen similar scenes depicted of Guilin in China. It really does look like it does in the pictures, but on a much grander, ‘need to see it to believe it’ scale.

It was great to return after our first foray to the bay on our Vietnam trip around six years ago. Then, we were on a boat with a random selection of backpackers and expats (the Australian pilot on a break from his Hong Kong base and the French couple living it up in Singapore who we met on that trip definitely helped fuel my expat-in-Asia desires!). This time around, we hired a boat to ourselves, which was not only more relaxing for us, but essential to prevent annoying other people given we had a baby on board!

We cruised past floating fishing villages….


…had a brief stop at the ‘Surprising Cave’ – as did every other boat it seems…the boats and tour companies are quite strictly controlled so there’s not much boating off the beaten path. Cave stop aside, you feel suitably spaced from other boats when cruising along (the photo below is the worst it got).


Life’s day to day essentials are all bought, sold and delivered by boat in Halong Bay. Here, a 24 hour supply of water (for cooking and washing) is delivered to our boat…

There are also floating vendors, as per the Mekong Delta’s waterways – mostly specialising in local junk food!


One of my favourite parts of the trip was transferring to a small rowboat to visit a hidden lagoon, which we entered via a small cave/tunnel…


Once inside, we rowed around a tranquil waterway surrounded by sheer rock walls and lush vegetation. It had a real undiscovered feel, despite the fact it’s on all the boat tour itineraries. We were lucky it wasn’t too busy…


And what has to be the most random sighting of the whole trip – an enormous cruise ship that seemed to emerge out of the mist early in the morning, looking totally out of place in a bay populated solely by traditional looking wooden junks.

Hopefully this isn’t the future of tourism on Halong Bay. It would be nice if the cruise passengers could transfer to junks before cruising the bay, leaving the unsightly mega-boat moored elsewhere!

Everything tastes better that ends in ‘tini

Liz / / 2 Comments


Lately I’ve found that all the best drinks on Saigon’s menus are some variation of the martini. Favourites (so far) include:

Saketini@Xu
Xu’s Saketini is a Japanese-inspired take on the classic martini – mixing sake and vodka, with daikon as the olive’s savoury substitute.
Basil Martini@Amber Room
One of classy, upscale Amber Room’s signature drinks, the Basil Martini is highly fragrant and refreshing. A bit left of centre from the usual cocktail friendly herbs like mint, basil works with vodka suprisingly well!
Rose Martini@Warda
The Rose Martini is a delicious, middle eastern take on the martini – like Turkish Delight in a glass. I have a huge soft spot for all things rose flavoured, so this may be my favourite Saigon cocktail to date…
Other flavours I love in martinis are vanilla, lemongrass, lychee, chilli and kaffir lime – what about you?

Top 5: Tips for tailor trips in Hoi An

Liz / / 9 Comments

Hoi An is Vietnam’s mecca for tailor-made clothes (in addition to its great mix of architecture and quaint – though touristy – streets). Despite all pretensions of heading to Hoi An for its history and culture, few leave without getting some clothes made at one of the many tailor shops – and it can actually be a really fun thing to do.

To ensure your sartorial creations don’t miss the mark (and trust me, they sometimes can!) here are a few tried and tested tips to keep in mind:

1. Know how it works
Most of the ‘tailor’ shops are actually fabric stores with a middle man. The person you deal with is most likely not a trained seamstress, but more like a go-between who finds out what you’re after, measures you up and briefs an outsourced tailor.

2. Who to choose
There are SO many tailor shops in Hoi An and they all look the same (bar a few higher end ones) so how do you choose? A differentiating factor is the level of English and customer service offered by the staff. It’s a no-brainer, but go with a place where you feel a rapport with the shop staff, since you don’t know who they outsource their tailoring to or how skilled they are. I go to Quyen at Hoi An Cloth Shop – friendly, fun and speaks perfect English!
3. Keep it simple
The tailors in Hoi An are accustomed to making simple, structured clothes like business shirts, pants and winter jackets, and can be particularly good at copying existing items. For dresses and skirts, the simpler the shape the better, and stick to fabrics like cotton rather than anything too obscure. I’ve seen some women getting evening dresses made that turn out looking cheap and nasty. Summery, cottony day dresses are a safer bet – sometimes the store may even have a model on display that might appeal, or bring along a magazine picture or something you want copied. On my recent trip to Hoi An there just happened to be a trench coat on display which was exactly what I had in mind, so I had one made to fit me. Because it was something they were well versed in already, it turned out perfectly.
4. Finding fabric
Hoi An’s tailor shops all stock reams of fabrics (from cottons and polyester blends to wools for jackets and suits) but if you’re really picky about quality or have a specific print in mind, it may be best to shop for fabric before heading to Hoi An. Try the markets there or in other cities (for example in Saigon, there’s a whole row of fabric shops on Hai Ba Trung, across the road from Tan Dinh Market).
5. The end result
Feel free to request adjustments be made before your clothes are finalised and purchased. The shops are happy to send clothes back to their tailors for nips and tucks (at no extra cost) until your creation fits perfectly. Oh and turnaround times are really quick – you can usually pick up your clothes the next day (or on occasion, the same day if you’re measured in the morning).

Shoptalk: Hanoi

Liz / / 8 Comments
Here are a few little things I picked up on a recent trip to Hanoi (shopping capital of Vietnam, in A Girl in Asia’s humble opinion!). The Old Quarter, particularly Nha Tho, Nha Chung, Ly Quoc Su, Hang Trong and Hang Gai Streets are jam-packed with small shops crammed with clothing, lacquerware, bags, scarves, lanterns and more. Nha Tho and Nha Chung Streets are particularly good for unique boutiques.
Favourite finds:

– 3 reproduction propaganda art posters (US$7 each, Hanoi Gallery, 17 Nha Chung Street)

– Set of 6 silver lacquer coasters, in bonus lacquer box (US$6, Thuong Gia 1, 7 Hang Trong Street)

– 3 rolls of colourful, Asian kitsch wrapping paper (US$1 each, Toi, 8 Nha Chung Street)
Shopping tip: Even some of the marked price shops in Hanoi are partial to a little bargaining. The posters retail for US$8 each so a little discount was granted there, and the coaster set was meant to be $7. Not massive discounts, but it means the wrapping paper was virtually ‘free’ (don’t you love justifying shopping?!).

Top 5: Parts of Asian culture that are really growing on me

Liz / / 6 Comments
The longer I stay in Asia, the more things that were initially strange now seem quite normal. Dogs and cats running around my local general store? Normal! A family of five on one motorbike? Normal! Ice in beer? Totally normal! Here are the main things that I’ve become particularly partial to while travelling and living in Asia:
1. Shoes off!
All over Asia it’s considered rude (and dirty) to leave your shoes on when entering a home. I’m so used to doing this now that I find it almost offensive when people don’t automatically lose their shoes upon entering our place! And on trips home, I find it really strange when people keep their ‘outside’ shoes on inside their own houses, especially ones with carpet. I used to do this myself but if and when I’m living back in Australia I’ll definitely be ditching mine at the door.
2. Avoiding the sun
This is another aspect of Asian culture which really gels with me. As someone with fair skin that burns and freckles quite easily, I’ve never been able to saunter around in the sun uncovered without some stinging, peeling consequences. People in Asia (particularly females) whip out wide-brimmed hats, umbrellas and even long gloves to preserve their skin from pigmentation and premature ageing the second the sun’s out. While some of this sunsmart behaviour is more about vanity than health (as they believe the whiter the skin the better) I’m following suit. Nothing to do with skin colour (I mean, a tan would be great!), but for health and preservation reasons. Now, I cringe when other westerners walk around hatless and in singlet tops in the middle of a blazing hot day, particularly if they already look sunburnt and don’t seem to care. And when at the beach, I TOTALLY get why the locals only swim in the very early morning and as the sun’s going down, leaving midday’s scorching sand to the lobster-red westerners! 
3. Keeping up appearances
In Asia, people are often taken at face value – how they present themselves relates to their wealth and social status and the amount of respect they are due. While in some ways I don’t totally agree with this (in Australia, billionaires will lounge around Bondi in their shorts and thongs and that’s kind of cool!), I do see that better grooming and presenting yourself well will open more doors for you, so to speak – more noticeably so here than in the west. 
4. Not losing face
Keeping your cool means not losing face, and this can pertain to any aspect of life, from altercations to bargaining in the market. Angry words don’t usually get you anywhere if a situation is a little tense, but it’s amazing what a smile can do. I need to practice this one more often.
5. An apple a day…
With the exception of dishes that are deep fried, contain animal fat or over-zealously doused in MSG, Asian cuisine is generally quite healthy. People often eat certain things because of their health properties and this is something I’m becoming more and more interested in. When an elderly local touts the benefits of a certain fruit, herb or vegetable as being “good for the heart” (or any other organ or ailment) I take note. It could be an old wives tale…or a pearl of ancient wisdom!

Chic Stays: Maison d’Hanoi

Liz / / 4 Comments


Maison d’Hanoi is a newly-opened hotel in the middle of Hanoi’s Old Quarter action, only a few blocks away from the great boutiques on Nha Tho Street (also home to the cathedral). The hotel bills itself as ’boutique’ but with 55 rooms it doesn’t exactly feel small and intimate! The mod-Asian decor is a refreshing change from old-world/colonial or stock standard hotel blah, as often found in Hanoi – I particularly loved the painted red Chinese-style chests (very A.G.I.A!). We just stayed here for a few nights and found it highly convenient, albeit a little over-popular.

Stay for: the central location, the fresh, contemporary Asian decor
Not for: peace and quiet (the hotel is still undergoing some construction and there’s a lot of staff coming and going – my trusty Hanoi LUXE city guide was right!), fresh air (some rooms have no windows)

Cafe crush: Puku, Hanoi

Liz / / 9 Comments

Peeling paint adds to Puku’s vibe

Satisfying stuff – a BLT, plus chicken and fried egg

A breakfast fave – eggs benedict

Puku brings a little touch of bohemia to one of the Old Quarter’s popular shopping strips. A bit of a hideaway (it’s accessed down a skinny, dingy alley and up a steep staircase) Puku has a faded charm and an arty/studenty/expat-y vibe. With its high ceiling, peeling paint, comfortable but scruffy furniture and a blackboard menu behind the counter, it’s a (much) grungier version of Saigon’s La Fenetre Soleil. The food is western cafe fare – mostly melts, sandwiches and breakfast standards.

Go for: the faded charm, a dose of comfort food when you’re all pho-ed out, a birds eye view of the charming street below, free wi-fi, delicious melts, a laidback atmosphere and the casual, breezy rooftop area
Not for: the coffee, which isn’t so great (inexcusible really when there’s such good coffee to be had in Vietnam!), the sometimes surly service
Puku, 60 Hang Trong Street, Old Quarter, Hanoi

On the road!

Liz / / 1 Comment

All’s been a little quiet on the Girl in Asia front of late as I’ve been travelling and entertaining visitors…which means there’s a lot of non-Saigon but nonetheless interesting blog posts on their way! Specifically – bits and pieces on Hanoi, Halong Bay and Hoi An, where we’re heading tomorrow – yes, that means more trips to the tailor, it just has to be done!

Saigon Eats: The Deck

Liz / / 11 Comments

The Deck’s deck – perfect for waterfront lounging
This is one of those ‘is this really Saigon?!’ kind of places. Situated in the expat enclave of An Phu – a world of gated compounds, huge villas, international schools and (gasp!) quiet streets – glass-walled, contemporary restaurant The Deck takes advantage of Saigon’s river setting. As you drink and dine, sand barges, small boats and clumps of plant matter drift by, and across to the other bank the view is nothing but tropical foliage. It’s as though you’re a million miles away from the city. From inside the restaurant you have a view out to the river from any of the tables courtesy of the glass frontage, or you can choose to sit on the namesake ‘deck’ for a more casual experience. The rattan seats (pictured) are very conducive to a sunset cocktail or two. 

Clockwise from L to R: prawn canneloni, lamb ravioli, chocolate tart,
chilli salt squid, lemongrass & vanilla creme brulee
The Deck uses alot of local produce (including delectable seafood) and flavour influences from Asia to Europe, creating a menu of fresh, modern cuisine. We had chilli salt squid to start, with tempura light batter and a perfect texture. For mains – prawn canneloni with a tomato and lobster sauce (which had a strong dill taste that oddly worked!) and lamb ravioli (French spring vegetable flavours and succulent meat). For dessert – a luscious chocolate tart and a lemongrass/vanilla creme brulee that I highly recommend to any lover of lemongrass. While The Deck is obviously not a ‘local’ experience it’s a worthwhile one for those looking to escape the city for a while and indulge.
The Deck, 38 Nguyen U Di, An Phu (D2)