Some shopping finds from Phnom Penh


A whirlwind trip back to Phnom Penh (where I used to live) was a great excuse to do some shopping in my old haunts (Russian Market, I miss you!). Here are some of my favourite finds (clockwise, from top):

1. Vespa print cushion from Bliss
2. Turquoise scarf from Kravan House
3. Organic Cambodian palm sugar from Lucky Supermarket
4. Bodia Spa soaps (turmeric and ginger & menthol) from U-Care
5. Turquoise and silver pendant and black and silver earrings from Russian Market
6. Black and silver ring from Kravan House
7. Colourful palm leaf boxes (free!) – the jewellery came in these, so much better than plastic bags
There was also lots of miscellaneous shopping in the form of groceries I either can’t find in Saigon or are outrageously priced (still can’t get over $10 arborio rice), and alcohol – love the lax tax system in the ‘bodge.

Spotted in Saigon…



Sights like these were common in Cambodia, but I haven’t seen too many overloaded cyclos or makeshift vehicles joining the motorbiking masses on Saigon’s heaving streets. I saw this guy while walking through District 3 and couldn’t resist taking a pic – he waved just at the right moment!

Saigon Eats: Tib Express


The new face of Saigon dining appears to be in the form of cheap eats in a cool, clean, contemporary setting. Tib Express is one such place. A step up from popular chains like Wrap & Roll and Pho 24, it offers Vietnamese snacks and street fare in a classy setting.

A recent edition to the Tib family of restaurants (there’s also Tib on Hai Ba Trung, D3 and Tib Chay – a vegetarian restaurant on Tran Nhat Duat, D1), Tib Express is located across the road from bustling Ben Thanh market, offering respite from the crowds and heat and a delicious array of tasty snacks.


We tried a random selection of fresh rolls and rice noodle based dishes, including Hue rolls with pork and prawn (presented like sushi rolls) and another wrapped in mustard leaves, which provided a slight wasabi flavour, minus the heat.

Hue rolls with pork and prawn – Vietnamese sushi?!

Glutinous goodness
Everything tastes better rolled!

Fresh and flavoursome food aside, the decor is cool (think polished concrete floors, an open kitchen, lots of white and warm wood) and the vibe is busy and fun – a great place for a quick and tasty lunch!

Tib Express, 54 Phan Boi Chau, D1

I like this building!

This is Gaya – a beautiful Saigon store featuring a mix of lacquerware, clothing by Cambodia’s Romyda Keth (of Phnom Penh’s Ambre), and stylish furniture and homewares. It used to be on Ton That Thiep but moved to this location on Le Lai (not Le Loi!) a few months ago. I love the 70s building – curved, yet adorned with sharp and striking lines. The internal renovation of the building is gorgeous too, especially the top-floor atrium. Well worth a look if you’re in Saigon!

P.S. The black and white checkered building in the background is Zen Plaza (on Nguyen Trai) – a department store with some particularly unique fashion on the ground floor by Vietnamese designers. And there’s a Charles & Keith shoe shop a few doors down plus many other clothing and shoe stores to explore. Overall – a great little fashion district!

Sozo in Saigon


Sozo is a Saigon cafe staffed by disadvantaged locals – similar in concept to Phnom Penh’s Friends and Hanoi’s KOTO. It can be found in Pham Ngu Lao – the backpacker district – housed amongst cheap hotels, budget travel agencies and ubiquitous bars, cafes and shops. This was the first time we’d ventured to the area since moving to Saigon (but we’re familiar with it, having stayed there a few times in the past). Being back there only reminded me how I don’t miss backpacker ghettos, and that travellers who only hang around Pham Ngu Lao except for a few excursions to the tourist sites are really missing out on the rest Saigon has to offer! Anyway, rant over – back to Sozo… 

The menu featured a mix of standard ‘western’ fare (nowhere near as innovative as the global/gourmet offerings at Friends and KOTO) so we stuck to the more enticing looking desserts. One slice of carrot cake, one of chocolate cake and two coffees later (they do great Vietnamese iced coffees by the way – but then, it’s hard to find a bad one) we were satisfied with both the sweet fix and Sozo’s feel good factor.

The staff were fantastic too, really friendly and efficient. I love this type of cafe – the service is always great as the staff are making are real effort to improve themselves. As for why the cafe is named SOZO – apparently it’s a Greek word meaning ‘saved’. Now that’s getting a bit too deep – just bring on the cake!
Sozo, 176 Bui Vien, D1, Saigon

Virtual Vietnam

I recently found out about Vietnam 720 – a cool website with virtual tours of lots of tourist attractions, streets, markets, shops, spas etc. in Saigon and elsewhere in Vietnam. Of particular interest to me are the cafes and restaurants – now I can have a sneak peek at some before checking them out, as well as find out about others I didn’t know existed – great! There are some places I’ve blogged about featured on the site too, like a virtual tour of the mosque and new bar Amber Room – so you can get a better idea of what they look like! Apparently the site will be updated with a new virtual tour every day.

This is what US$1 buys at my local market…

  • 5 tomatoes
  • 2 limes
  • 1 onion
  • 1 green capsicum
  • 1 large carrot
  • a handful of green beans
  • 1 bunch of coriander
  • 1 bunch of shallots
  • some birdseye chillis (thrown in for free!)
Cho Tan Dinh, D1, Saigon (near the big pink church on Hai Ba Trung)

Lunch at the mosque

Saigon’s central mosque is an old-world outpost in the the centre of the city, and once in the grounds you feel a world away from the city’s noise and traffic-clogged streets.

The mosque was built in 1935 by south Indian traders, and today the inner courtyard is home to a fantastic (and cheap!) restaurant that’s not only a peaceful spot but serves up delicious fare – Southern Indian with a Malaysian twist.

The vegetarian curries in particular reminded me alot of the single-veg dishes we ate (and loved) while travelling around Sri Lanka, such as the savoury green beans cooked with curry leaves and mustard seeds. The okra curry and the potato cubes had a real Sri Lankan taste too, while the paratha (bread) was distinctly Indian. We tried a mildly-spiced beef curry in addition to all the veg, but the fried chicken was the real standout with its crispy, tangy tasting skin (providing more travel flashbacks – this time of Penang).

Great food aside, I loved the faded blue walls, old bicycles and rustic outdoor kitchen at the mosque. Very atmospheric – and highly authentic.

The central mosque, 66 Dong Du Street, D1, Saigon

In search of weasel poo coffee…and other culinary adventures

On the weekend we had friends visiting from Phnom Penh, so spent alot of time wandering from place to place eating and drinking. Here’s where we went and what we tasted:

First stop: Trung Nguyen, Vietnam’s best-known coffee chain – think a local version of Starbucks. We went to the huge branch across the road from Diamond Plaza, which has mostly outdoor seating. Some of the tables are actually shaped like Vietnamese coffee drippers! Trung Nguyen coffee comes in various arabica and robusta blends but the type we were seeking out was that made from weasel poo! Rumour has it that weasels (or civets) digest the beans, which produce a really smooth tasting coffee, among the best in the world. Whenever we’ve gone to Trung Nguyen and tried to order it they’ve said they don’t have it. So we tried again, and they still said it wasn’t available but pointed to the Legendee coffee (my favourite) instead. So we stuck with the Legendee and I’ve since discovered that it’s made using the animal’s digestive enzymes without the coffee actually passing through a living creature. So – I guess we kind of had weasel poo coffee, in a much more palatable way.

We then headed next-door to Bamizon for their banh mi (sandwiches). I had the chicken baguette which comes with salad, coriander and chilli (my favourite Vietnamese sandwich) but unfortunately it also had a thick layer of sweet tasting butter. Will forego the butter next time and just have a drier (but healthier!) sandwich.
For lunch (the banh mi was just a snack!) we went to Annam Gourmet Foods on Hai Ba Trung. A gorgeous, gourmet supermarket packed with imported goods and beautifully packaged Vietnamese spices, teas and coffees, it has an upstairs cafe where you can help yourself to a Belgian beer from the fridge and order cheeses and meats at the deli counter. It’s one of my favourite places in Saigon and it never fails to impress visitors! With some Chilean wine and Belgian and Kiwi beers we shared some cheese and meat platters, featuring proscuitto, Serrano ham, salami, parmesan, brie and more. This is the best place for a charcuterie fix, and you can pick up interesting things to take home afterwards.

Our delicious lunch at Annam
Post-lunch dessert – time for chocolate nemesis cake at Au Parc, my favourite dessert to date in Saigon. So rich it’s hard to finish one by yourself (but I usually manage!).
Dinner – Vietnamese fare at Quan An Ngon, one of Saigon’s best-loved restaurants where stations are set up around a courtyard (with a French colonial building on the grounds) dishing up the best of Vietnam’s street snacks. We had chilli salt beef, prawns on skewers, banh xeo (pancakes with pork, prawns and bean sprouts), lemongrass clams and much, much more. A feast for the princely sum of around US$7 per person.
And somewhere in the midst of all this eating and drinking was a trip to La Fenetre Soleil, one of my favourite Saigon cafes for it’s decor, ambience and great ginger juice (read my blog post about it here). And there was also a trip to Wrap & Roll (how could I forget?) for more delicious Vietnamese snacks (the highlight – sundried beef in fresh spring rolls).
Next time out and about -will perhaps check out new dumpling bar Steam, have a drink at favourite wine bar Qing (its new location that I haven’t been to yet) and try a curry at the mosque, another thing on my to do list!
Coffee photo courtesy vncoffeeinc.com