A French spa experience in Saigon

Inside the shop at L’Apothiquaire, where they sell their range of spa products. Such a beautiful fitout.

One of the best things about living in (or travelling in) Asia is the abundance and affordability of massages and spa treatments (and really, who doesn’t love this about Asia?!) On a mission to find a favourite foot massage place in Saigon I recently tried one at L’Apothiquaire – the District 1 branch that is (their other branch in District 3 looks and sounds amazing – set in a French villa complete with a swimming pool – I aim to go there sometime as well).

Describing itself as a traditional French day spa, it is indeed tres chic and a very glamourous (note: girly) place for some pampering. It’s set in a restored colonial building in the heart of Saigon, with old patterned floor tiles that remind me of those in the French colonial buildings in Phnom Penh.

After the obligatory cup of tea (chamomile rather than green – being French-style and all) I was led to the foot massage room, complete with piped classical music and hot pink suede armchairs. The massage to follow was fantastically soothing with a medium amount of pressure applied – not too soft, not too hard. A lavender-scented oil was used, and I also wore a fragrant, herb and flower filled eye mask that was presented.
I loved the massage and the spa itself, but the experience got me thinking about spas that reflect a certain nationality or culture. In Thailand and Cambodia I particularly love spas that have a real Southeast Asian/Buddhist vibe, with the scents of jasmine and lemongrass in the air, green tea, Buddha statues, calming music, gongs, the sounds of monks chanting – that kind of thing (ok maybe I’m getting a little carried away with the monks chanting bit). If truth be told I think I prefer this slightly more than a European-style experience. I still haven’t figured out if there’s a real spa culture in Vietnam aside from the more Chinese-style acupressure massage places (plus the other kind of ill-repute!). I’ve had foot massages at the more local-style places and while some are good, they can also be quite hard and I really hate those sticks they sometimes use on your pressure points – ouch!
Hmm…looks like I’ll need to do some more, ahem, ‘research’ into spas with a more Vietnamese flavour, or failing that, seek out a beloved Thai-style place. If you have any spas in Saigon (or Hanoi) that you recommend, be sure to let me know!

Living in Asia: What’s it really like?


During the almost three years I’ve called Asia home, many friends, family members, acquaintances and well-meaning strangers have asked me lots and lots of questions about what life here is like. They range from the really general and sometimes hard to answer “so, what’s it like?” to the just-don’t-get-it “but what do you EAT there?!”. Then there are the skeptical questions like “you had a baby in Bangkok, what was THAT like?!” (with nose screwed up). I’ll do my best to clear up some of the myths and misconceptions about life in Asia (as an expat), though this is by no means an exhaustive list of the questions I get asked (or other expats) get asked:

Q:Are there many other expats there? (By the way, these qs pertain to life in both Phnom Penh and Saigon)

A: Yes – thousands and thousands, from all over the world! So many no-one ever seems to know the exact number (and of course, it’s ever-changing). Phnom Penh has many, many foreigners working for NGO’s (from outrageously high paid staff at the UN etc. through to volunteers at grassroots organisations). Then there are embassy workers, English teachers, bar owners, and a growing corporate/business community involved in all sorts of industries from hospitality and tourism to banking. In Saigon there’s a hugely diverse mix too, though the expat community seems to be more business oriented than Phnom Penh’s. So basically, no, I’m not a lone western female eliciting curious stares and I’m not considered special or unique – there are many of us!
Q: So, what do you EAT there?! (one of my favourite questions – hilarious don’t you think?)
A: Um, what don’t I eat?! It’s Asia – not another planet! For starters, I still cook at home alot and make similar things I used to make at home (but take advantage of the great local produce so lots of things using coriander, lime, lemongrass, mint etc.). In both PP and Saigon there are restaurants of every (well, almost) cuisine under the sun, plus an abundance of local eateries from cheap street eats through to classy, high-end restaurants showcasing the best of Khmer or Vietnamese cuisine. There are western-style cafes, French restaurants, pizzerias, kebab shops – you name it! And no, it’s not all food poisoning and tummy troubles (the once or twice we’ve ever been sick living in Asia was from western restaurants, not local! And never from street food!). Which brings me to my next point…
Q: You can’t drink the water there, can you?
A: Well, I don’t drink the tap water but I’ve heard of a few brave souls who insist the water in PP and Saigon is absolutely fine to drink and don’t seem to be any worse for wear for it! Most people (myself included) have a water cooler at home – the kind you find in offices – and get refills delivered. Others just boil and cool the tap water and this is fine too. You just get used to it and when you go to a western country it actually feels strange pouring a glass of water out of the tap! Oh and as for the ice question – that you should be wary of ice in restaurants is rubbish – ice is made in factories in Asia from purified water, it’s totally fine! Trust me!
Q:What about going to the doctor? Is it safe?
A: It depends where you go. There are western standard (and trained) doctors in Phnom Penh and Saigon and it’s just like going to the doctor at home. Then there are some dodgy local clinics that are rife with misdiagnosis and shoddy hygiene etc. but only the stingiest of expats would put their health at risk by going somewhere unreliable for health matters.
Q: You had a baby in Bangkok – what was THAT like?!
A: Yes, I did and it was great! Well the childbirth part was no picnic but the medical facilities, great staff and level of care were amazing! I had my baby in Samitivej Hospital, Bangkok, which not only has hotel room-like recovery suites but shops and cafes in the lobby – you can even ring and order Starbucks and dim sum (and more) and have it delivered to your room. If it wasn’t for the having a baby part, it would have been like a holiday. Oh and the other question relating to this I get asked is, “So is your baby Thai now?” No – while it’d be cool if she got dual citizenship she was only eligible for Australian citizenship (the rules!).
Q:So what’s it like there? (the ultimate question!)
A: How to sum up?! It’s fun, it’s interesting, it’s enjoyable, it’s sometimes frustrating and challenging, it’s sometimes cheap, it’s sometimes expensive, it’s chaotic, it’s peaceful, it’s close to lots of other great places to travel, it’s an adventure some of the time and it’s mundane and ‘normal’ at others. It’s also what you make of it and often about the people you meet and spend time with (one of the absolute best parts). It can be addictive, and it’s something I’m really glad I’m doing – I totally recommend it to anyone considering a move to this diverse, crazy, amazing continent called Asia!
Do you (as an expat or long-term traveller) have any questions about your life you’re always answering? And for non-Asia dwellers, is there something you’ve always wondered about what life in Asia is really like?

Cafe crush: Kita Coffee House


Kita Coffee House seems to fly under the radar a bit when it comes to Saigon’s western-style cafes. Others like Au Parc, Juice and La Fenetre Soleil are justifiably popular and you always see them mentioned in local mags and guidebooks, but Kita’s – not so much (it is fairly new though). It serves really great, healthy sandwiches and salads (especially yum – the goat cheese and roast red pepper salad on brown baguette), a deli counter for takeaway gourmet goods, and excellent Lavazza coffee at slightly cheaper prices than the norm (30,000 dong for a cappuccino or latte – a bit less than US$2). I really like the decor too – it’s fresh, contemporary, bright (yellow/white/browns) and tiny. I’m obsessed with tiny places at the moment – I guess it’s the cute and cosy factor, which Kita’s has in droves. New favourite!

[Update: as of February 2010, Kita can no longer be described as tiny! It underwent extensive renovations that transformed the decor from contemporary to Parisian, plus the ground floor was expanded and two more floors were added!! While it’s no longer a cosy bolthole, it remains one of my favourites, retaining the same great menu with new additions. And the coffee’s still the best!]

Kita Coffee House, 39 Nguyen Hue, D1, Saigon

Barfly: The Amber Room


The Amber Room is a chic little bar that just opened shop on Saigon’s bustling Dong Du Street, which is home to diverse restaurants, the Sheraton hotel, the Mosque and a Belgian chocolate shop. Over Tet we decided to check it out and have a drink. Needless to say we were the only customers, but it was also daytime so that could explain it! I tried an espresso martini – delicious. The dark moody walls, colour co-ordinated decor (shades of chocolate and of course, amber) and dramatic light feature hanging overhead make for a sophisticated set-up.

The Amber Room is my type of bar – small, intimate and perfect for cocktail imbibing. And unless there are some I haven’t seen yet, I wonder why there aren’t more simple, tiny shophouses converted into cool bars here?

The Amber Room, Level 1, 59 Dong Du Street, D1, Saigon

Year of the Ox – Saigon style

A must-see during Saigon’s Tet (New Year) celebrations is the centrally located street of Nguyen Hue, decked out to represent a tranquil countryside scene – particularly fun for lovers of kitsch!

Lush gardens and colourful flowers have been planted in abundance. There are bird sounds blaring out of loudspeakers and there’s even a replica bamboo bridge to cross (which everyone jostles to pose on for the all-important Tet family photo!).

The many depictions of 2009’s hardworking Ox showcase alot of creativity and innovation – there are oxen constructed of straw, gold and silver leaf coated metal, welded drums and my favourite – those made entirely of pink, yellow, orange and white flower buds!

Chic stays: The Opposite House, Beijing

A bit of an escapist post today rather than one on somewhere I’ve actually been (still in holiday dreaming mode post-Sydney break!). I love the look of this hotel in Beijing, The Opposite House.

Designed by a Japanese architect, Kengo Kuma, it only opened in August last year. With 99 rooms and some seriously chic looking restaurants and bars, it also houses a contemporary art space (pictured above).

While the eating and drinking spaces (like the one pictured above) are a bit more decadent, the guestrooms are light and minimal, and I particularly love the standalone oak bathtub (how zen!).

And here’s the outside – a funky cube (hmmm, reminds me of the Olympics’ Water Cube – is this Bejing’s shape du jour?).

Images courtesty The Opposite House

Remembering Phnom Penh

I arrived home in Saigon to a surprise package – the latest LUXE city guide to Cambodia & Laos had arrived (with the Phnom Penh section researched and updated bymoi!). In case you haven’t heard of LUXE, they are a series of compact little fold-out guides containing inside knowledge on the best shops, restaurants, cafes, bars, hotels and spas a city has to offer, conveyed in an irreverant, hilarious style.

Seeing the finished product made me a bit nostalgic for Phnom Penh and all my favourite old haunts. I really, really look forward to a short break there some time soon to get reacquainted with them.
Aside from the great food and shopping scenes (and friendly people) there’s something else about Phnom Penh I miss too – a certain unique vibe the city emanates. I think it comes from a combination of its compact size, active art community, feelgood NGO initiatives (like streetkid run restaurants and silk shops supporting underprivileged women), and the ever-present reminders that the country is a Buddhist one (orange robed monks collecting alms; temples, incense and offerings…). Being away from Phnom Penh makes me appreciate the things I really loved about living there.

Back in Saigon and goals for 2009

Bring on the Year of the Ox

After a month (yes, month!) in sunny Sydney celebrating Christmas, catching up with family and friends, and gorging on Lebanese sweets, yum cha, macarons and more, I’m now back in Saigon, just in time for Tet. Tet is Vietnam’s New Year, and the city is gearing up for the big event with decorations adorning every tree, shop, building, and street. It’s really quite festive and a nice time to be back!

During my break I decided to set some goals for 2009 (or the Year of the Ox) – ranging from really small things (like getting the 1920s style posters I bought last year in Shanghai finally framed) to bigger things – like career goals and travel plans. The main ones are:
Travel:
To take a trip to somewhere in the Middle East, a region I’ve yet to visit but am fascinated with. At the moment the plan is Syria, which sounds amazing. If this doesn’t eventuate for whatever reason, Japan is another frontrunner for the major trip of the year. Lots of small trips and long weekend ideas are also in the works for this year including a trip to Phu Quoc Island in Southern Vietnam, a long weekend or two in Bangkok (for the gazillionth time but we love the place), a trip back to our old home – Phnom Penh, plus lots of other trips around Vietnam.
Work:
The main goal – to keep writing! I need to branch out and try and get some articles published in regional magazines (as well as some more local ones), which is my main aim for this year. I also need to update everything I’ve let go over the past few months – namely, my online portfolio. I also need to make an updated resume, new business cards with my Saigon number, and a more interesting looking invoice template. Oh, and of course, I aim to keep blogging, say 3 times a week (at least!).
Home & Health:
With Tan Dinh Market a short walk away, I’ve got no excuse not to stock up on the freshest produce rather than schlep to far flung supermarkets in search of imported goods all the time. I also want to explore more of our neighbourhood eateries, including the street food stalls. And to cook some new and interesting dishes and to make cakes and other sweet treats in our Asian style portable oven. I need to read more – and not just magazines! Having a baby really puts book reading on the backburner, but now Z is sleeping better I should have more time to read – great! I also want to start doing yoga again – I was doing yoga every week when pregnant but have sadly stopped. I want to try and do a half hour session 3 times a week (built up to slowly…of course!).
Image: malaysiasite.nl

In Sydney on holidays!

Am currently ‘home’ in sunny Sydney for the holiday season, trying to get over slight jetlag (but the baby’s jetlag is even worse :-). I probably won’t post much (if at all) til January – so happy holidays and see you in the new year!