Top 5: Hotel experiences in Asia (part 5)



Dream Hotel – Bangkok, Thailand

Dream Hotel provided a cool city escape. A boutique hotel, albeit on the larger side, Dream Hotel had a futuristic vibe with the beds appearing to float above soothing blue light. Contemporary decor and little touches like covetable bath products, a welcome bottle of wine and a good selection of magazines in the room made it a hotel experience to remember. I also really liked Flava – the hotel’s bar and restaurant – with their innovative cocktails a highlight (bizarre flavour combinations like tobacco and walnut come to mind but the details are a little hazy!).

Top 5: Hotel experiences in Asia (part 4)

The view from our bedroom window – not bad!

The guesthouse was tucked behind the trees – it was the only business on this little beach

D’Lagoon – Perhentian Islands, Malaysia

This experience was memorable for its location. In fact, I can barely even remember what our room’s interior looked like. The guesthouse was in the most idyllic location – on its own turquoise cove housing a coral reef in a quiet part of the beautiful Perhentians. This was a total back-to-nature experience, with nothing around us but lush jungle and rainforest, wildlife (including some scary monitor lizards) and warm, inviting water. Here, we did nothing but snorkel, snorkel, snorkel, and one night watched baby turtles hatch on the beach.

Top 5: Favourite hotel experiences in Asia (part 3)

A private plunge pool = pure luxury!

Amansara – Siem Reap, Cambodia

From the ‘we only got to stay there cos it was free’ files – our foray into the uber-chic world of Aman Resorts. Rooms at Amansara (a former royal guesthouse) can cost over US$1,200 a night, and former guests include Brangelina and brood. Our room had a zen-like minimalist style with Asian touches (think chanting monk music and incense), a standalone bathtub, rainforest shower, free mini-bar with full-size bottles, no tv (purposefully) and best of all, our own plunge pool. I did not want to leave – as you can imagine!!! Oh except to visit the restaurant (with its cool round ceiling) to eat gourmet food, sample the wine and cheese on offer, and have afternoon tea with cakes fresh from the oven and design books to browse…


Image courtesy Aman Resorts

Top 5: Favourite hotel experiences in Asia (part 2)



Old House Inn – Shanghai, China

Cute and quaint with an antique, grandmotherly vibe, Old House Inn was the perfect place to stay in old-meets-new Shanghai. A Chinese-Australian friend even commented that the photos of our room reminded her of her grandparents’ place! An adjoining contemporary restaurant with general mod-cuisine – A Future Perfect – was the ‘new’ element of this otherwise old-world boutique stay, located in the French Concession. From Old House we could walk to lots of interesting streets filled with remnants of 1920s & 30s Shanghai. I loved it!

Top 5: Favourite hotel experiences in Asia (part 1)

Sang Arun bungalows – the one on the far left was ours
A hotel is not always the focal point of a trip for me. I prefer to focus on absorbing the city/town/island/beach I’m visiting and all it has to offer. A luxurious or boutique hotel room is an added bonus, but if it’s really good it can become a holiday highlight.
On other occasions, accommodation serves as exactly that – somewhere clean and comfortable to rest your head while travelling (or in the case of my backpacking days – somewhere cheap but well-located). Sometimes these crashpads can be hidden gems, offering an amazing view or surroundings despite their basic facilities.
Over the next few days I’ll be posting my top 5 favourite accommodation experiences in Asia, from the luxurious to the cheap and cheerful (in no particular order), starting with:

Sang Arun Bungalows – White Sands Beach, Koh Chang, Thailand

I’m not sure if these bungalows are still there or not, but we stayed at Sang Arun for a memorable 10 days or so back in October, 2003. These basic beach huts had a mattress and mosquito net inside and a little balcony at the front with some wicker chairs. It was right on the sand with an uninterrupted view of a wide expanse of clear, calm ocean. The sea was literally a couple of metres from our doorstep so we could wake up in the morning and wade out into the water – it was the kind of blissful beach experience people pay thousands of dollars for in the Maldives or Bora Bora, but for around $7 a night. Beach bar Tiger Den was a few bungalows along, and at sunset they’d set up cushion strewn mats on the sand for happy hour cocktails (and evil Thai whiskey buckets). Before this sojourn I didn’t really think of myself as a beach person, but became easily seduced by island life on this trip.

Saigon eats: Chilli salt prawns

Chilli salt prawns have to be one of my favourite Vietnamese dishes sampled so far. I had this dish for the first time at the excellent Quan An Ngon – a Saigon must-do (a collection of the country’s best street vendors all stationed in one indoor/outdoor restaurant with a colonial building in the centre – it’s amazing).

The above picture was taken at a local seafood restaurant we went to recently called Bon Thien. The prawns were coated in a spicy chilli salt mixture and grilled, which made eating the shell essential to take in the flavour. We also dipped the prawns in a mixture of pepper, salt and lime juice for an even greater flavour boost (not that they needed it!).

Expat life in Saigon vs Phnom Penh

After recently moving to Saigon after 2+ years in Phnom Penh, I’m now being asked what the differences are between life in the two cities. This got me thinking – what are the pros and cons to living in each? And which is the better place to live? Having only been in Saigon a couple of months I don’t have a full understanding of how this city ticks, so my observations may change after living here a little longer. But for now, these are the main differences I’ve encountered:
Size
Phnom Penh is like a big country town and Saigon, an Asian NYC! In Phnom Penh (let’s just call it PP) everything is close, there’s no ‘commute’ as such, and five minutes after leaving home you’re at your bar/restaurant/shop/market/friend’s house of choice. Assuming you don’t live in Toul Kork or over the Japanese Bridge, that is! Meanwhile in Saigon, the crazy traffic and vast distances mean you can sit in a taxi forever just trying to get from A to B. Which brings me to my next point…
Transport
After grappling with motos and tuk-tuks in PP (and having to bargain each and every time – it gets so old), Saigon has a refreshing alternative – metered taxis! Not only is an air-conditioned taxi much more comfortable than a breezy, bumpy tuk-tuk (the fun factor dries up after the first few rides) but I no longer have to deal with the bargaining issue. And unlike Thailand, you don’t have drivers who try and get out of turning the meter on.
People
There are marked differences between Cambodian and Vietnamese people, but not wishing to offend I’m not going to go there. Instead, let’s talk expats. In PP it seems easier to meet people. Just go to a first Friday party at Elsewhere or prop up the bar at Rubies and you’re bound to form some fast and firm friendships after not too long. In Saigon, though, the sheer number of bars and expat hangouts means the scene seems more disjointed than PP’s. Where to even begin?! There are also a lot more NGO workers, creative souls and wandering hippy types in PP, while Saigon seems to attract a more professional, business -minded breed of expat. Not necessarily a bad thing, but it also changes the vibe of the cafes and bars. Saigon’s don’t have as casual a feel as PP’s.
Food & Drink
Both cities are excellent ‘food’ places. Vietnam’s sheer number of options are overwhelming and there’s much better street food here in Saigon, but PP has some truly excellent cafes and restaurants (that I miss!). More Saigon sampling is required before I can really compare the two!
Housing
Both cities are over-priced (in my opinion) – rents can be similar (or more) to those in Sydney, which doesn’t really make sense. In both places it can be hard to find a place that’s not badly designed or ridiculously tacky (think ugly patterned tiles, even uglier chandeliers, kitchens with no windows…). In Saigon there are lots of tall skinny houses that sound great in theory (5 bedrooms! 5 bathrooms!) but may also have 5 levels of steep stairs to contend with and again, no windows in the kitchens or bathrooms. I’ve come to a compromise with the bathrooms (both ours are windowless) but now have a kitchen with lots of bright natural light flooding in via a room length window – yay!
I could go on and on…but basically, Saigon wins in terms of transport (but I wish there was also a subway) and street food, while it’s a tie for other food and housing. And PP wins for people (for now!) and size – although I usually love large cities so perhaps Saigon’s size will grow on me. I think I’ve been spoilt (or become really lazy) living in a smaller place where things are easier to find and get to. At least the two cities are close enough that I can visit PP when I get too homesick for all my old favourite haunts!

Is this Saigon’s best value meal?

Ok, it’s not a 12,000 dong bowl of noodle soup at Tan Dinh market (my local – and yes, that is a bargain!), or any other cheap Vietnamese treat, but a 195,000 dong set menu at French restaurant Ty Coz. Specifically, an authentic and delicious 3-course French meal of substantial serving size for around US$12!

Ty Coz is homely and quaint with a French seaside cottage feel – well, as much as you can imagine in a skinny, multi-storey, concrete Vietnamese building. Tucked down an alley off Pasteur (behind Au Parc Cafe) it’s the kind of place you can have a raucous group dinner with screaming baby in tow and no-one seems to mind (perfect!). The owners are really friendly and happy to explain the specials in both French and English.

The specialty is mussels (moules) and there are lots of flavours to choose from, with variations on the cream and white wine theme plus others like curry or blue cheese. I couldn’t resist the great value set menu and opted for a tuna pancake (galette), followed by mussels with a garlic/white wine/cream sauce and a lemon tart for dessert. The pancake was a thin, wholemeal crepe filled with chunks of tender tuna and vegetables – a healthy, wholesome choice. The mussels were accompanied by a bowl of delicious frites and were beautifully cooked, while the lemon tart was the best I’ve ever eaten – light, fresh and equally sweet and sour.

For real, hearty French cuisine, value for money, great service and an unpretentious, fun atmosphere, Ty Coz is the perfect dinner destination.

Ty Coz, 178/4 Pasteur Street, D1, Saigon

Hoi An: Sweet escape

For those with a sweet tooth, Vietnam offers much temptation with its myriad baked goods – cakes, donuts, breads, tarts, croissants, baguettes, mousses and more are readily available. There’s no doubt the French influenced this trend, though Vietnamese people have an obvious penchant for sugar – you should see how much condensed milk goes into a local-style coffee!

During our recent stay in Hoi An we paid a visit (or two..or was it three?) to Cargo Club. A busy, bustling, multi-storey tourist haven, it seems a bit overrun – and it is, but for good reason. The dessert counter offers a luscious array of sweets made fresh in their onsite bakery, from a cashew-laden caramel tart to a decadent chocolate mousse.
One rainy afternoon we tucked into these almost-so-big-they-were-sickening cakes – one white chocolate kahlua, the other double chocolate. Meanwhile, rain pelted down just outside the doorway and people waded and cycled through the flooded streets as the river had broken its banks – definitely a good day for an indoor coffee and cake.
Cargo Club & Patisserie, 107-109 Nguyen Thai Hoc Street, Hoi An